Knowing some basics about your vehicle and scheduling regular maintenance
work can really help you save money on repairs. We've put together some
commonly asked car care questions and answers for your convenience.
Just click on the question link for a quick answer.
Car Care Q&A
Here are some commonly asked car care and repair questions. Click on
the link for a quick answer.
The correct auto-car tire pressure for a vehicle is determined by the
size and weight of the automotive vehicle, the type of auto-car tires
it uses, load hauled, and the type of automotive driving the vehicle is
intended for. The auto vehicle manufacturer places a tire inflation
placard in each vehicle that gives the proper car tire inflation
pressures for that auto vehicle. This placard is located on the inside
of the glove box door, inside the fuel-filler door, or on the car
driver?s side doorpost (depending upon manufacturer). Most auto
manufacturers also list tire inflation levels in the owner?s manual.
For auto vehicles that are parked inside, car care experts recommend
that the auto-car wiper blades be replaced at least once a year or when
the wiper blades start streaking – which ever comes first. On auto
vehicles kept outside or in areas where the auto-car wipers receive
excessive use, changing the auto-car blades two or even three times a
year is recommended for clear vision.
How often should I have my engine oil/filter changed? Houston, TX
According to automotive-car experts, regularly scheduled oil/filter
changes are the single most important item for prolonging auto-car
engine life. Most new auto vehicles have recommended oil/filter change
intervals of 7,500 miles and some new auto vehicles have recommended
oil change intervals of 11,000 to 15,000 miles under normal operating
conditions, with ""normal"" operation described as the operation of the
vehicle for at least 20 minutes at a medium speed, with a steady
throttle and in a clean driving environment.
Short hops to the store, stop-and-go rush hour driving, driving on dirt
roads and inclement-weather operation are all considered severe
operating conditions that can cause impurities to build up quickly in
the oil, resulting in increased wear and tear on internal parts. That
is why most auto-car owner's manuals and auto mechanics recommend
changing the oil and filter every three months or 3,000 miles
(whichever comes first) to assure that maximum engine lubrication
occurs while a minimum of impurities are suspended in the oil. To find
out what the recommended oil change frequency is for your auto vehicle,
check your car owner's manual or talk with your automotive service
professional.
How can I tell if my automotive / car engine coolant is OK? Houston,Tx
It is impossible to determine the condition of the auto-car coolant in
the radiator just by looking at it. Coolant, a mixture of ethylene
glycol and water, breaks down with age, picks up contaminants that
cause sludge, and becomes acidic. When this happens, it can cause the
auto-car to corrode within the radiator and cooling passages of the
engine. To determine its condition, coolant must be checked with
coolant test strips that measure PH balance. The auto-car coolant is an
environmentally hazardous substance. It pollutes the water table and is
poisonous to people and animals and therefore must be disposed of as a
hazardous waste. Your auto-car mechanic has special tools and
procedures for testing and changing coolant.
Why is heat coming out of my air conditioner? Houston, TX
If your auto-car air conditioning system blowing hot air instead of
cool, the auto-car refrigerant gas may have leaked out, you may have a
clogged condenser, or the air conditioner's blend door may be stuck.
Whatever the cause of the problem, the auto-car air conditioning system
needs immediate service. Turn the system off. You can cool the auto-car
vehicle interior by putting the ventilation control in the "vent"
position and/or opening the windows.
If you are driving at normal highway speed and the auto vehicle starts
to overheat, turn off the air conditioner, turn on the heater and
immediately pull over to the shoulder. Odds are if the vehicle starts
to overheat at highway speed, there is a problem in the cooling system
such as low coolant, a clogged radiator or a broken drive belt or burst
hose. Once at the shoulder, shut off the auto-car engine, open the hood
and let the car engine cool down – 20 minutes minimum. Once any
overboiling stops and the car's engine has cooled, look for obvious
signs of trouble. DO NOT attempt to open the auto-car radiator cap
unless the car engine is off and the top of the radiator is cold. If
there is no noticeable problem such as a broken drive belt or burst
hose, you can then add a coolant/water mixture to the radiator or
overflow reservoir, start the auto vehicle and drive slowly to a
service facility.
How often should my car get a tune-up? Houston, TX
The term “tune-up” actually applies only to older cars without
electronic ignition (before 1981). On these auto-car vehicles a tune-up
would generally be required every 15,000 – 20,000 miles and consisted
of replacing the spark plugs, ignition contact points, rotor and
distributor cap and adjusting the ignition timing as well as the
carburetor.
On modern auto-car vehicles equipped with electronic ignition, fuel
injection and computer controls, the term “engine performance
maintenance” is a more accurate term. A “tune-up” for these newer
vehicles is an orderly process of inspection, computer diagnosis,
testing and adjustment to maintain peak auto engine performance,
maximum operating efficiency and low car exhaust emissions. During this
process, spark plugs, plug wires, sensors, and modules may be replaced.
The frequency at which a newer auto-car vehicle needs a tune-up is
dependent more upon driving conditions than mileage and recommended
tune-up frequencies vary between 30,000 – 100,000 miles, depending on
the manufacturer. To learn how often your auto-car vehicle needs a
tune-up, check your owner’s manual or speak with your local automotive
service provider.
If you hear a grinding or squealing sound when the pedal is applied,
you probably need new brake shoes or pads. Auto-car brakes shouldn’t
make any noise as they operate. Even if the actual problem turns out to
be something minor, the only safe assumption is this one: noisy car
brakes are unsafe brakes. Postponing service is unsafe and could raise
the cost of the auto repairs later. If your car brakes are making
noise, get them inspected or serviced right away.
Does my transmission ever need service? Houston,TX
Most auto-car care experts advise having an automatic transmission’s
fluid and filter changed every two years or 24,000 miles, to keep it in
good working order. This is especially important if the auto vehicle is
more than five years old. Many auto vehicles newer than five years old
may need scheduled service less often and some new auto vehicles have
transmissions that need no scheduled service for the life of the car.
By-the-book service, however, may not be adequate if your vehicle is
driven hard, tows a trailer, goes off-road or carries a camper. Under
these conditions, the auto-car fluid and filter may need to be changed
more often -- every 12 months or 12,000 miles --because dirt and
moisture buildup in the fluid can cause internal damage. Heat buildup
can also be a problem. The harder the auto-car transmission works, the
hotter the fluid gets and the quicker the fluid breaks down. To find
out the recommended service schedule for your auto-car vehicle’s
transmission, check the owner’s manual or talk with your local
automotive service provider.
Manual transmissions generally need no regularly scheduled service, but
may need service due to worn clutch and throw-out bearings and broken
synchromesh gears. Check your owner’s manual for specific information
on manual transmission service or talk with your local automotive
service provider.
Techtips: Automotive / Car Repair Tips Getting the Most Out of Your Repair Shop Houston,Tx
Find out what to do when your auto-car is sick! Today's
auto-cars, light trucks, and sport-utility auto vehicles are high-tech
marvels with digital dashboards, oxygen sensors, electronic computers,
unibody construction, and more. They run better, longer, and more
efficiently than models of years past. But when it comes to auto-car
repairs, some things stay the same. Whatever type of auto repair
facility you patronize--dealership, service station, independent car
garage, auto specialty shop, or a national auto franchise--good
communications between customer and auto shop is vital. The following
tips should help you along the way: Do your homework before taking your
auto-car vehicle in for auto repairs or auto service. Today's auto
technician must understand thousands of pages of technical text.
Fortunately, your required reading is much less. Read the owner's
manual to learn about the auto-car vehicle's systems and components.
Follow the recommended service schedules. Keep a log of all auto
repairs and auto service. When you think about it, you know your car
better than anyone else. You drive it every day and know how it feels
and sounds when everything is right. So don't ignore its warning
signals. Use all of your senses to inspect your auto-car frequently.
Check for: Unusual sounds, odors, drips, leaks, smoke, auto warning
lights, gauge readings Changes in acceleration, auto engine
performance, gas mileage, fluid levels. Worn tires, belts, hoses.
Problems in handling, braking, steering, vibrations. Note when the
problem occurs. Is it constant or periodic? When the auto vehicle is
cold or after the auto engine has warmed up? At all speeds? Only under
acceleration? During braking? When shifting? When did the problem first
start? Professionally run auto repair establishments have always
recognized the importance of communications in automotive repairs. Once
you are at the auto repair establishment, communicate your findings. Be
prepared to describe the symptoms. (In larger auto shops you'll
probably speak with an auto service writer/service manager rather than
with the technician directly.) Carry a written list of the symptoms
that you can give to the auto technician or auto service manager.
Resist the temptation to suggest a specific course of auto repair. Just
as you would with your physician, tell where it hurts and how long it's
been that way, but let the auto technician diagnose and recommend a
remedy. Stay involved... Ask questions. Ask as many questions as you
need to, to understand the problem. Don't be embarrassed to request lay
definitions. Don't rush the auto service writer or the auto technician
to make an on-the-spot diagnosis. Ask to be called and with a
description of the problem, course of action, and costs before work
begins. Before you leave, be sure you understand all shop policies
regarding guarantees, and acceptable methods of payment. Leave a
telephone number where you can be reached.
Techtips: Choosing the Automotive / Car Best Repair Shop Houston,Tx
Choosing the Right Repair Shop for Your Vehicle No matter what you
drive--sports car, family sedan, pick-up, or mini-van, when you go in
for repairs or service, you want the job done right. The following
advice should take much of the guesswork out of finding a good repair
establishment. I. Preliminaries Don't just drop your vehicle off at the
nearest establishment and hope for the best. That's not choosing a
shop, that's merely gambling. Read your owner's manual to become
familiar with your vehicle and follow the manufacturer's suggested
service schedule. Start shopping for a repair facility before you need
one; you can make better decisions when you are not rushed or in a
panic. Ask friends and associates for their recommendations. Even in
this high-tech era, old-fashioned word-of-mouth reputation is still
valuable. If possible, arrange for alternate transportation in advance
so you will not feel forced to choose a facility solely on the basis of
location. II. At the Shop Look for a neat, well-organized facility,
with vehicles in the parking lot equal in value to your own and modern
equipment in the service bays. Professionally run establishments will
have a courteous, helpful staff. The service writer should be willing
to answer all of your questions. Feel free to ask for the names of a
few customers. Call them. All policies (guarantees, methods of payment,
etc.) should be posted and/or explained to your satisfaction. Ask if
the shop customarily handles your vehicle make and model. Some
facilities specialize only in certain makes. Ask if the shop usually
does your type of repair, especially if you need major work. Look for
signs of professionalism in the customer service area: civic and
community service awards, membership in the Better Business Bureau,
AAA-Approved Auto Repair status, customer service awards. Look for
evidence of qualified technicians, such as trade school diplomas,
certificates of advanced course work, and ASE certifications--a
national standard of technician competence. The backbone of any shop is
the competence of the technicians. III. Follow-Up Keep good records;
keep all paperwork. Reward good service with repeat business. It is
mutually beneficial to you and the shop owner to establish a
relationship. If the service was not all you expected, don't rush to
another shop. Discuss the problem with the service manager or owner.
Give the business a chance to resolve the problem. Reputable shops
value customer feedback and will make a sincere effort to keep your
business.
Techtips: Getting Your Automotive / Car Ready for Summer. Houston,Tx
Summer's heat, dust, and stop-and-go traffic will take their toll on
your vehicle. Add the effects of last winter, and you could be poised
for a breakdown. You can lessen the odds of mechanical failure through
periodic maintenance...Your vehicle should last longer and command a
higher resale price, too! Some of the following tips are easy for
anyone to do; others require a skilled auto technician. Getting
Started: The best planning guide is your owner's manual. Read it; and
follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedules. Air
Conditioning: A Marginally operating system will fail in hot weather.
Have the system examined by a qualified technician. Cooling System: The
greatest cause of summer breakdowns is overheating. The cooling system
should be completely flushed and refilled about every 24 months. The
level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked
periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually
recommended.) DIYers, Never remove the radiator cap until the engine
has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts,
clamps, and hoses should be checked by a pro. Oil: Change your oil and
oil filter as specified in your manual--more often (every 3,000 miles)
if you make frequent short jaunts, extended trips with lots of luggage,
or tow a trailer. Engine Performance: Replace other filters (air, fuel,
PCV, etc.) as recommended--more often in dusty conditions. Get engine
driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, smiling, diminished
power, etc.) corrected at a good shop. Windshield Wipers: A dirty
windshield causes eye fatigue and can pose a safety hazard. Replace
worn blades and get plenty of windshield washer solvent. Tires: Have
your tires rotated about every 5,000 miles. Check tire pressures once a
month; let the tires "cool down" first. Don't forget your spare, and be
sure the jack is in good condition. Examine tires for tread life,
uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. An
alignment is warranted if there's uneven tread wear or if your vehicle
pulls to one side. Brakes: Brakes should be inspected as recommended in
your manual, or sooner if you notice pulsation's, grabbing, noises, or
longer stopping distance. Minor brake problems should be corrected
promptly. Battery: Batteries can fail any time of year. The only
accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment.
Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections;
clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery. caps are
removable, check the fluid level monthly. Avoid contact with corrosive
deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.
Lights: Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs;
periodically clean dirt and insects from all lenses. To prevent
scratching, never use a dry rag. Emergencies: Carry some basic
tools--ask a technician for suggestions. Also include a first aid kit,
flares, and a flashlight.
Automotive / Car Ignition Key Will Not Turn Houston,Tx
1. You may have engaged the anti-theft rod or steering wheel lock in
the steering column. Generally this happens when you turn your car off
with the wheels cut hard in either direction. You can generally remedy
this problem by "jiggling" the steering wheel right and left while
attempting to turn the key. 2. The key is bent or otherwise damaged.
Take a good look at your key to insure that it is not bent, cracked,
chiped, or damaged in any way. If it is, try starting the car with an
alternate key. (You do have more than one key for your car right?) In a
pinch, you may also be able to repair a slightly bent key by squeezing
it flat in a vice. 3. The ignition lock cylinder is shot. Over time
ignition locks can wear out. You will note a bad lock cylinder because
the lock will be difficult to turn with any key and often will not turn
at all. As a quick remedy, you can try a bit of penetrating oil (WD-40
or similar) inside the cylinder and on the key, but this is likely only
a temporary solution. At some point you will need to replace the
cylinder. (The sooner the better.)
Automotive / Car No Start and No Sound. Houston,Tx
When your car won't start, and you hear no sounds, you are likely
confronting a dead battery. A dead battery can be caused by a litany of
things so we will take a quick look at what might be the cause, and
also suggest some alternate causes if the problem does not lie in the
battery. 1. Check the simple items. Check your headlight switch to
insure you did not leave your automobile's headlights on overnight.
Next, check any and all interior lights (including that back seat
reading light the kids like to use.) If either of these have been left
on you have probably found your culprit. If neither of these prove the
root cause, once you get the car started again make sure to check for a
bad trunk, under-hood, or glove box light that doesn't turn off
properly. 2. Under the hood, take a good look at the battery while
you're under the hood. If the terminals are "cruddy" or "dirty" (or
loose) you may well have a bad connection. Also while you're under the
hood, take a quick look at your alternator belt to insure it is in
place, tight, and in good condition. Though a problem with the belt is
much less likely the culprit, it never hurts to check. (Your alternator
is responsible for constantly recharging your battery and if the belt
is worn, damaged, or not securely in place, you battery may not be
charging as it should.) 3. If you still have not rooted out the cause
of your problem, you should "jump it" to get the car started again and
check for additional problems. First, check the other lights that might
be malfunctioning (trunk, glovebox, underhood). If none of these have
caused the issue, and the problem recurs, you will need to have the
charging system inspected. The cause could be anything from a bad
solenoid, to a malfunctining alternator or voltage regulator. Check
with your mechanic to determine the cause.
My automotive / car brake warning lights is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx
If your auto backfires while starting (not while driving) usually one
of a few things is the culprit. 1. Is it wet? Most commonly, this
occurs in "damp" conditions and can be attributed to moisture in the
distributor cap. The humidity in the air causes some condensation
within the cap and interferes with the ability of the distributor to
function properly. 2. Carbs and Fuel Injection. If your problem seems
more general in nature and occurs other than in wet conditions, you
likely have a problem with your fuel injection system or carbuerator.
Depending on how your car is equipped (fuel injected or carbuerated)
you will likely find your problem here. · My automotive / car brake
warning lights is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx My automotive /
car brake warning lights is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx
If the light is on all the time, it could mean you simply forgot to
release the parking (emergency) brake. The brake warning light remains
on when the brake is set as a reminder. If the brake warning light
remains on when the parking brake is released, then something is amiss.
In some cases, the brake warning light may remain on if the switch on
the parking brake pedal or lever is misadjusted. Nothing is wrong with
the brakes and a simple adjustment should fix the problem. If the brake
warning light comes on when you apply the brakes, or is on
continuously, it means that hydraulic pressure has been lost in one
side of the brake system or that the fluid level in the master cylinder
is dangerously low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system). In
either case, the fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked.
Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily
solve the problem. But if there’s a leak, the new fluid will soon be
lost and the warning light will come back on. Brake fluid leaks are
serious because they may cause the brakes to fail! So avoid driving the
vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what’s wrong.
Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers, drum
brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself. Wet spots at hose
or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed.
Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings, causing
them to slip or grab. The uneven braking action that results may cause
the vehicle to veer to one side when the brakes are applied. Brake
shoes or pads that have been contaminated with brake fluid cannot be
dried out and must be replaced. Brake Warning Light Circuit The brake
system is divided into two hydraulic circuits. On most rear-wheel drive
vehicles, it is divided so one circuit applies the front brakes and the
other applies the rear brakes. On front-wheel drive cars and minivans,
the system is usually split diagonally. One circuit works the right
front and left rear brake, and the other works the left front and right
rear brake. This is done for safety purposes so if one circuit loses
all its brake fluid and fails, the vehicle will still have one
remaining circuit to apply two wheel brakes. Usually located on the
master cylinder or the brake lines exiting the master cylinder is a
"pressure differential" switch. If either brake circuit develops a leak
and loses its fluid, the difference in pressure when the brakes are
applied will trip the differential switch causing the brake warning
light to come on. Abs Warning Light On vehicles equipped with antilock
brakes (ABS), a second warning light is provided to warn if a problem
occurs within the ABS system. The ABS lamp comes on when the ignition
is turned on for a bulb check, then goes out after the engine starts.
If the ABS warning light remains on or comes on while driving, it
indicates a fault has occurred in the ABS system. What happens next
depends on the nature of the fault. On most applications, the ABS
system disables itself if the ABS warning light comes on and remains
on. This should have no effect on normal braking. Even so, ABS will NOT
be available in an emergency situation or when braking on a wet or
slick surface. CAUTION: If the brake warning light also comes on and
remains on while the ABS warning light it on, it signals a serious
problem. Your vehicle may not be safe to drive. The brakes and ABS
system should be inspected immediately to determine the nature of the
problem! If the ABS light comes on momentarily then goes out, the
nature of the problem is usually minor and the ABS system usually
remains fully operational. Some vehicle manufacturers call this kind of
fault a "nonlatching" fault (meaning it isn’t serious enough to disable
the ABS system). Regardless of the type of fault that occurred to
trigger the ABS warning lamp, a special "code" is recorded in the ABS
module’s memory to aid in diagnosing the problem. On some vehicles this
code can be retrieved by putting the ABS system into a special
diagnostic mode. The code is then flashed out through the ABS warning
lamp. The code number refers to a diagnostic chart in a service manual
that must be followed to pinpoint the faulty component. On other
applications, a special "scan tool" must be plugged into the vehicle’s
diagnostic connector to read out the fault code. Diagnosing ABS
problems requires a fair amount of knowledge and expertise (as well as
special equipment in many applications), so this job is best left to a
competent professional.
Automotive / Car Starting and engine Backfiring. Houston,Tx
If your auto backfires while starting (not while driving) usually
one of a few things is the culprit. 1. Is it wet? Most commonly, this
occurs in "damp" conditions and can be attributed to moisture in the
distributor cap. The humidity in the air causes some condensation
within the cap and interferes with the ability of the distributor to
function properly. 2. Carbs and Fuel Injection. If your problem seems
more general in nature and occurs other than in wet conditions, you
likely have a problem with your fuel injection system or carbuerator.
Depending on how your car is equipped (fuel injected or carbuerated)
you will likely find your problem here.
Automotive / Car: The Shakedown on Engine Vibration Issues, Underhood Service Houston,Tx
Diagnosing and correcting tire and wheel imbalance can cure many
of your customer’s complaints of vehicle vibration. But as you may be
aware, there are times when you can balance the wheels and find that
the vehicle still shakes. Lets take a look at some of the more common
driveshaft and engine-related causes of vibration. If wheel or tire
runout is within specifications and the vehicle has rear-wheel drive
(RWD) or four-wheel drive (4WD), driveshaft vibration may be what’s
causing the problem. Driveshaft vibration is rarely encountered in
front-wheel-drive (FWD) cars and minivans because the halfshafts turn
at the same speed as the wheels, which run at about a third of the
speed of the driveshaft in most RWD and 4WD vehicles. So unless a
halfshaft is bent or damaged, it’s unlikely that it would be out of
balance enough to cause a noticeable vibration. FWD halfshafts also run
smoother because the CV joints on the ends of the shafts do not create
cyclic vibrations as the operating angle of the joints change. With
U-joints, though, changing the operating angle of the joint causes a
cyclic change in the rotational speed of the driven shaft. The greater
the operating angle, the greater the speed changes in the shaft. The
speed of the driveshaft also amplifies U-joint-induced vibration. The
maximum acceptable operating angle of a U-joint decreases in direct
proportion to shaft speed. At 2,000 rpm, the maximum angle is about 8°,
while at 4,000 rpm, it is only about 4°. It’s important that you
inspect the driveshaft angle or pinion angle on the rear axle. If
someone has modified the suspension to change the vehicle’s ride
height, they may have created a U-joint vibration problem. Shimming the
rear axle and rear transmission mount to reduce the operating angles of
the U-joints may be necessary to reduce or eliminate this kind of
vibration. Another source of vibration can be a worn center carrier
bearing on a two-piece driveshaft. The bearing should be replaced if it
shows any looseness. Alignment of the bearing is also important. If
off-center, it can create unequal drive angles and cause vibrations.
Driveshaft runout can also cause vibrations. Runout can be checked by
positioning a dial indicator near the center of the driveshaft, then
rotating the shaft to determine the amount of total run-out. More than
.010" of runout can cause trouble. Unbolt the rear U-joint and rotate
it 180° in its yoke to see if that eliminates the run-out problem. If
it does not, the shaft is bent and needs to be replaced. Driveshaft
Imbalance Test Vibrations caused by driveshaft imbalance are more
difficult to diagnose. One way to do this is to raise the rear wheels
off the ground while supporting the rear axle (don’t let the axle hang
otherwise it may create a driveline vibration by increasing the
operating angle of the U-joints). 1. Start the engine and run the rear
wheels up to speed (no more than 55 mph to be safe). When the vehicle
starts to shake, note the speed. 2. Stop the engine, remove the rear
wheels and reinstall the lug nuts to hold the brake drums in place.
Then repeat the same test to see if the vibration is still present. If
the vibration does not return, the problem is not the driveshaft but
wheel and tire imbalance. If the vibration is still there, proceed to
Step 3. 3. Stop the engine again, remove the brake drums and repeat the
test once more. If the vibration is gone, the problem is drum
imbalance. If the vibration persists, it’s the driveshaft. Caution: Do
not step on the brake pedal while the drums are off, doing so will
force the pistons out of the wheel cylinders. Just shut the engine off
and let the drivetrain bring itself to a stop. To rebalance the
driveshaft, send it to a machine shop that does balancing, or use an
electronic on-car balancer to balance it yourself. (See following
procedure.) If you’re using an on-car balancer, place the magnetic
pickup head just behind the pinion nose under the axle housing and the
strobe light under the rear of the driveshaft. Draw a chalk line on the
shaft for
a reference mark. Then run the shaft up to speed and note the relative
position of the mark when it is illuminated by the strobe. The strobe
will flash when the heaviest part of the driveshaft is at the six
o’clock position (straight down). To correct the imbalance, install
worm screw hose clamps on the shaft with the heavy part of the clamps
positioned 180° opposite the heavy spot. Then run the shaft back up to
speed to see if additional weight is needed to cancel out the
vibration. Add more clamps as needed or weld a small chunk of iron to
the shaft opposite the heavy spot. Repeat until the vibration is
eliminated. If you don’t have an on-car balancer, install a pair of
hose clamps on the shaft and make four reference marks 90° apart. Try
the clamps at each of the various positions until you find the one that
produces the least amount of vibration. Motor Mounts Often-overlooked
engine components that may need to be replaced to eliminate vibration
are motor mounts. These rubber mounts can deteriorate, collapse and/or
separate with age. Fluid-filled "hydraulic" type mounts can often leak,
allowing annoying engine vibrations to be transmitted to the chassis.
Most mounts are designed so that separation won’t allow the engine to
fall out onto the roadway. But a bad mount may cause a myriad of
problems - many easily misdiagnosed. Often, bad motor mounts allow the
engine to rock and move around, causing noise and interference problems
with the throttle, transmission and clutch linkages. For example, a
thumping noise when the transmission is put into gear or when the
vehicle is accelerating is a classic symptom of a bad mount. Excessive
engine rocking also can create exhaust leaks and rattles where the head
pipe joins the exhaust manifold. Plus, the donut that seals the exhaust
joint can be crushed or broken by the motions of the engine, or the
head pipe or pipe flange may crack. Cracked or broken motor mounts can
be an annoying source of vibration and noise, typically a clunk or
shudder when accelerating hard. A broken or separated mount may even
allow an engine-driven fan to scrape the fan shroud or contact the
radiator, which also contributes to annoying noise. Because motor
mounts maintain engine and driveline alignment in FWD cars and minivans
with transverse-mounted engines, it’s important that the mounts be in
good condition. The mounts support the engine and transmission or
transaxle, and help dampen noise and vibration to isolate the
powertrain from the rest of the vehicle. The upper mounts on FWD
applications also help control engine rock as the engine applies torque
through the driveshafts. While the design of the mount may prevent the
engine from literally falling out of the car, it won’t keep the engine
from twisting or hopping on its mounts every time the vehicle
accelerates or is under load, which can produce thumping and rattling
noises. It also can overstress components such as radiator and heater
hoses, wiring connectors and the exhaust system. A broken or loose
motor mount in an FWD application can be even more serious because it
may allow engine movements that interfere with the throttle or shift
linkage. If the bad mount is an end mount, it may also contribute to a
torque steer condition and cause accelerated wear or separation of the
inner CV joints on one or both driveshafts. The noise produced by a
separated or broken motor mount often sounds like a bad U-joint or
inner CV joint (a clunk when accelerating or placing the transmission
or transaxle in gear). So before either of these other components are
replaced, the mounts should be checked. Some mounts are "hydroelastic"
and have hollow chambers filled with hydraulic fluid to dampen
vibrations that would otherwise be transmitted across the mount to the
chassis. Motor mounts need to be replaced when they’re loose, broken or
collapsed. And, replacement mounts should be the same (fluid-filled
hydroelastic or solid rubber) as the original. Caution: Substituting a
less expensive solid mount for a fluid-filled mount can increase the
transmission of engine noise and vibration to the rest of the chassis.
These mounts may save your customer a few bucks, but won’t do the same
job as the original. They feel harsher and transmit more noise and
vibration to the rest of the vehicle, and ironically, may cause a
customer to return with complaints of a harsh rides or vibration.
Harmonic Balancer The harmonic balancer, also referred to as a
vibration damper, is a device that is connected to the crankshaft in
order to reduce the torsional vibration. As the cylinders fire, power
is transmitted through the crankshaft. Since the front of the
crankshaft takes the brunt of this power, it often moves before the
rear of the crankshaft. This causes a twisting motion. As the power is
removed from the front, the halfway twisted shaft unwinds and snaps
back in the opposite direction. Although this unwinding process is
quite small, it can cause "torsional vibration." To eliminate this
vibration, a harmonic balancer is attached to the front part of the
crankshaft that’s causing the trouble. The balancer is constructed of
two pieces connected by rubber plugs, spring loaded friction discs, or
both. Therefore, when the power from the cylinder hits the front of the
crankshaft, it tries to twist the heavy part of the damper. Instead, it
ends up twisting the rubber or discs connecting the two parts of the
damper. Since the front of the crank can’t speed up as much with the
damper attached, the force is used to twist the rubber and speed up the
damper wheel. This helps keep the crankshaft operation calm. According
to one parts manufacturer, replacement "harmonic balancers" are quickly
becoming a hot item for today’s car owners. The reason is "harmonic
vibrations," which can lead to a variety of mechanical failures.
Harmonic vibrations are specific and repeated vibration patterns, which
pass through an object. In today’s cars, such vibrations result from
the combustion of the air-fuel mixture. Each time a cylinder fires, the
connecting rod pounds the crankshaft journal as the force turns the
crankshaft, causing energy to be dispersed throughout the engine.
Multiply this by the number of cylinders (with variations in engine
speed) and you have what is commonly called harmonic vibrations.
Contributing to this column were Larry Carley and Gary Goms.
Automotive /Car No Start and a Normal Sound. Houston,Tx
Unlike many diagnosis, a slow starting sound can be traced back
to a number of potential problems. Let's go over each to see if we
cannot find your problem. 1. Is it the Battery? The simplest cause of
the slow start problem can be a low or discharged battery. If the
starter motor cannot get enough energy from the battery to turn over
fast enough it will not start the car. 2. Starter Motor If your problem
isn't due to a weak or partially discharged battery, you may be looking
at a faulty starter motor. If the car was running for some time
recently and you have reason to believe the battery has a charge, you
might have a worn starter. Have your mechanic test your starter draw to
check for this problem. 3. Faulty connection Also fairly common is a
faulty connection somewhere between the battery and the starter. If the
wiring that connects the two is loose, shorted, or show other signs of
a problem this may well be the cause of the dilemma.
Automotive / Car No Start and Grinding Sound Houston,Tx
The grinding sound that you hear is generally indicative of a bad
starter drive gear. The gear is attempting to interconnect with the
engine flywheel gear and the grind is a clear indication that something
is wrong. This situation will need mechanical attention, but before
calling for a tow you can try and start the car a few additional times
to drive it to the station and avoid the tow costs. If you do wish to
attempt to restart it, here's how: 1. Be Gentle and Patient First, give
the car a few minutes. Then turn the key to the start position and see
if the gear will engage. If you hear the grind again, immediately turn
the key to the off position. You may try this a few times waiting a
couple of minutes between each. If the car will still not start, and
you have the time, try it again a few hours later, and the next
morning. Your only goal here is to get the car started "one more time"
so you can drive it to the repair shop to avoid the tow costs. If the
car will not start after you have given it time and multiple tries, you
will need to have it towed in and repaired.
Automotive /Car No Start and Spinning or Whirring Sound. Houston,Tx
This spinning sound is indicative of a bad starter drive. Here,
the whirring or spinning is the sound of the starter motor shaft
spinning freely when it hasn't engaged. Most likely in this situation
you will need to replace your starter. But before you need to pay the
costs for a tow, you can make a few attempts to start the vehicle one
last time and drive it into the shop. Here's how: 1. Be Gentle and
Patient First, give the car a few minutes. You want to let everything
come to a complete stop. Once the time has passed, turn the key to the
start position. If the spinning is still present, immediately turn the
key to the off position. If the car did not start, and you have the
time, try it again a few hours later, and the next morning. Your only
goal here is to get the car started "one more time" so you can drive it
to the repair shop to avoid the tow costs. If the car will not start
after you have given it time and multiple tries, you will need to have
it towed in and repaired.
My automotive / car "CHECK ENGINE " light is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx
It means your vehicle’s onboard computer system has
self-diagnosed some kind of problem. The "Check Engine" light, which is
also called a "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" (MIL) or "Service Engine
Soon" (SES) lamp, is there to signal you when a problem occurs that may
require attention. This can include anything from a momentary hiccup
that has has little or no noticeable affect on engine performance or
driving safety to a failure of a major electronic component. There’s no
way to know what the light means without running a diagnostic scan on
the system to determine the nature of the fault. As a rule, a
continuous Check Engine light usually signals a "hard fault" or failure
that has occurred. If the light comes on and off, or only blinks
momentarily, the problem may be minor or intermittent in nature. To
help identify the problem, it helps to make a mental note of the
conditions that occurred when the light came on. Where you driving at a
certain speed? Accelerating or slowing down? Shifting gears? Onboard
diagnostic systems are very complex and require a fair amount of
expertise as well as special tools to troubleshoot. To find out what’s
wrong, a technician has to "get into" your system through a diagnostic
connector which may be located under the dash, under the driver’s seat
or in the engine compartment. The diagnostic connector serves as a port
of entry for accessing information and/or for putting your vehicle’s
computer system into a special diagnostic mode for further testing or
displaying "fault codes". Fault codes are numeric codes that are
generated when a problem is detected. If a sensor circuit reads out of
range or some electronic component fails to respond to a command from
the computer, the computer recognizes it as a fault and records a
number that corresponds to the nature of the problem. The technician
must then retrieve the code and refer to specific diagnostic chart or
"fault tree" that gives him the step-by-step checks he has to perform
to isolate the failed component. It can be a very time-consuming
process depending on the nature of the problem. Usually the process
works but sometimes it doesn’t. An intermittent fault can be very
difficult to track down, and may require repeated attempts to repair it
My automotive /car engine oil pressure warning light is on. What should I do? Houston,Tx
Don’t ignore it. An oil pressure warning light (or low gauge
reading) means one of two things: either your engine has dangerously
low oil pressure (for a variety of reasons which we’ll get to in a
minute), or the oil pressure sending unit that triggers the warning
light (or operates your gauge) has failed. The question here is whether
you have a serious problem or a minor one. First, do not keep driving
if the oil warning light is on or your oil pressure gauge has dropped.
Stop the engine, let it sit for a few minutes, then check the oil
level. Is the level low? If the oil level is down more than two quarts
or no oil is showing on the dipstick, adding oil to bring the level
back up to the full mark may be all that’s necessary to make the light
go out. Just keep your fingers crossed that you haven’t damaged the
engine from running it too low on oil. If you hear rapping or knocking
noises the engine starts, you’re too late. The damage is done and now
you’re stuck with the consequences. Note: On some late model vehicles,
the warning light will come on (or a message will appear) if a sensor
in the oil pan detects a low oil level. The light is supposed to come
on before the level gets low enough to cause any damage. If your oil
level was low, it means your engine is either leaking oil or burning
it. Leaks can be fixed by finding and replacing leaky gaskets and
seals. Sometimes the oil filter will leak if it isn’t installed or
tightened properly. But an oil burning problem means the valve guides,
rings and/or cylinders are worn or damaged and more costly repairs are
needed. If the dipstick shows a full oil level, then low oil obviously
isn’t your problem. The oil pressure may be low because of a worn or
broken oil pump, a plugged oil pickup screen in the engine’s crankcase,
possibly a plugged oil filter or excessive bearing wear. Or, the oil
pressure may be fine but the oil pressure sending unit has failed.
Further diagnosis will be required to determine what’s wrong. Should
you attempt to drive your vehicle home or to a service facility? It’s
risky. If the problem came on suddenly, your engine does not have a lot
of miles on it (less than 60,000) and you noticed no unusual noises (no
valvetrain clattering or engine knocking), there’s a good chance that
all that’s wrong is the sending unit. But, there’s no way to know for
sure without actually checking the engine’s oil pressure with a gauge,
or replacing the sending unit to see if a new unit makes the light go
out. If the problem is only the sending unit, your engine still has oil
pressure and you can continue to drive it until the sending unit can be
replaced. But, if you’re wrong you risk ruining your engine. If you
think you might have a low oil pressure or oil delivery problem because
of a bad oil pump or one of the other problems we mentioned, do not
drive your vehicle. Doing so only increases the probability of further
engine damage. Have the vehicle towed to a service facility for
repairs.
My automotive / car front-wheel drive car makes a clicking sound when turning. Is anything wrong? Houston,Tx
Yes. A clicking sound when turning is one of the classic symptoms
of a worn or damaged "constant velocity" (CV) joint. Your car has four
such joints on the two front axles: two inboard joints and two outboard
joints. The outboard joints are the ones that make a clicking sound
when they go bad. Inside the joint are six steel balls, positioned in
grooves between an inner race and an outer housing. The balls are held
in position by a cage that looks something like a wide bracelet with
windows or slots cut in it. When the joint is new, the balls fit
tightly into the cage windows. But as the joint accumulates miles, the
cage windows become worn and allow the balls to rattle around. The
grooves in the inner race and outer housing also wear, which further
contributes to noise. When driving straight, a worn CV joint is usually
quiet (constant noise would indicate a bad wheel bearing or other
problem). But when the wheels are turned to either side, the joint
bends causing the balls to click as they slide around in their cage
windows and grooves. The noise is usually loudest when backing up with
the wheels turned. Repacking the joint with grease won’t help because
the joint is worn and needs to be replaced. The "normal" life of a CV
joint is usually 100,000 miles or more. But a joint can fail
prematurely if the rubber boot that surrounds it is damaged or develops
a leak. Cv Joint Boots The boot, which is made of rubber or hard
plastic, serves two purposes: it keeps the joint’s vital supply of
special grease inside, and it keeps dirt and water out. After five or
six years of service, it’s not unusual for the boot to develop age
cracks or splits. Boots can also be damaged by road hazards or a
careless tow truck operator who uses J-hooks to tow your vehicle. Once
the boot seal is broken, the inside grease quickly leaks out. Starved
for lubrication, the CV joint soon fails. Dirt and water can also enter
the boot and contaminate any grease that’s left inside. Either way, a
damaged boot is bad news for the joint. CV joint boots should be
inspected periodically (when the oil is changed is a good time) to make
sure they are not cracked or torn, and that the clamps are tight. If
you see grease on the outside of the boot, it is leaking and needs to
be replaced (the sooner the better). If a clamp is loose and the boot
is leaking grease at one end, the clamp needs to be replaced. Original
equipment boots are a one-piece design, which means the driveshaft and
CV joint have to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled to
replace a bad boot. However, there are aftermarket "split-boots"
designed for easy do-it-yourself installation. The split-boots
eliminate the need to remove and disassemble the joint and driveshaft.
You simply cut off the old boot, clean out as much of the old grease as
possible from the joint, pack the joint with fresh high temperature CV
joint grease (never ordinary chassis grease), then install the new
boot. Most split-boots have a seam that is glued together. The seam
must not have any grease smeared on it and the glue must be applied
carefully for a good seal. Also, the vehicle must not be driven until
the glue has cured (about an hour or so). NOTE: Most professional
mechanics do not use split-boots because (1) they don’t think a
split-boot is as reliable or as long-lived as a one-piece original
equipment style boot, and (2) they don’t like the idea of installing a
new boot on a questionable joint. By the time a damaged or leaky boot
is noticed, the joint has usually lost most of its grease and/or been
contaminated by dirt. Unless the joint is removed, disassembled,
cleaned and inspected, there’s no way to know if it is still in good
enough condition to remain in service. If it’s making noise, replacing
the boot would be a waste of time because the joint is bad and needs to
be replaced (most new joints come with a new boot, clamps and grease).
But even if the joint isn’t making any noise, it may still have wear or
internal damage that will soon cause it to fail. WARNING: A CV joint
failure can cause loss of steering control under certain circumstances.
If the joint locks up, it can prevent the wheels from being turned.
What's the difference between a automotive /car U-joint and a constant velocity (CV) joint? Houston,Tx
A U-joint (the "U" stands for "Universal"), which is also called
a "Cardan" joint after the guy who invented it, is a type of flexible
coupling typically used on both ends of the driveshafts in rear-wheel
and four-wheel drive vehicles. Each U-joint consists of a four-legged
center cross with needle bearing cups on the ends of each leg of the
cross. The bearing cups on one pair of legs are mounted to the
driveshaft. The other pair of cups are held in place by a pair of
U-bolts attached to a yoke that mates to either the transmission or
differential. The bearing cups allow the joint to swivel and bend as
the driveshaft follows the motions of the differential and axle as the
suspension bounces up and down. Most original equipment U-joints on
newer vehicles are "sealed" and do not require periodic greasing. But
many replacement U-joints as well as the U-joints on older vehicles do
have a grease fitting which allows the joint to be lubed periodically.
Cv Joints A constant velocity (CV) joint does essentially the same
thing as a U-joint, only better. There are two basic types: "ball-and
groove" CV joints (called "Rzeppa" joints after the guy who invented
them), and "tripod" CV joints. Rzeppa CV joints, which are used as the
outer joints on most front-wheel drive cars and minivans, consist of a
cup-shaped outer housing, a center race and cage assembly. Machined
into the outer housing and center race are six grooves that hold six
steel balls. The balls are held in position by windows or slots cut
into the cage assembly. The joint is designed so that when it bends,
the balls are always positioned at the midway point inside the joint.
This eliminates the cyclic variations in speed that a U-joint
experiences when it operates at more than a few degrees off-center. A
variation on the Rzeppa CV joint is the "cross-groove" CV joint. It
also has six balls between an inner race and outer housing. But this
type of joint is designed to move or plunge in and out to compensate
for changes in driveshaft length that occur as the suspension moves up
and down. This type of joint is used as the inboard CV joint on many
European and Japanese front-wheel drive cars. The tripod style of CV
joint consists of a three-legged cross or trunnion with roller bearings
on the end of each leg. The trunnion is attached to the driveshaft, and
the roller bearings run in machined grooves or channels in an outer
"tulip" housing. This type of joint is also designed to plunge in and
out, and is used as the inner CV joint on most domestic front-wheel
drive vehicles. There are also some Japanese and European front-wheel
drive cars that use a tripod-style joint as the outer joint. All CV
joints are enclosed by a rubber or hard plastic boot. The boot keeps
grease in and contaminants out. CV joints do not require periodic
maintenance or greasing, and are engineered to last 100,000 miles or
more. All front-wheel drive cars and minivans have four CV joints: one
inner joint and one outer joint on each of the vehicle’s two
driveshafts (which are also called "halfshafts"). CV joints are also
used on the driveshafts of some rear-wheel and four-wheel drive
vehicles, too.
How often do I need to have my automotive / car wheels aligned? Houston,Tx
Once. If the wheels on your vehicle are correctly aligned when
the vehicle is manufactured at the factory, they should not change
alignment until something in the suspension wears out or is damaged.
Alignment doesn’t change. The only thing that changes it is wear or
damage. Hitting a pot hole or a thousand pot holes won’t knock your
suspension out of alignment unless you hit something hard enough to
actually bend metal. That really doesn’t happen very often, so having
the wheels aligned periodically is a waste of money. On the other hand,
there are valid reasons for having the alignment checked periodically:
If your tires are wearing abnormally, alignment should be checked to
find out why. Chances are something is amiss and needs to be readjusted
or replaced. It only takes a 1/8 inch of toe misalignment to drag the
front tires sideways the equivalent of 28 feet for every mile traveled!
If you’re buying a new set of tires and want to maximize tread life,
it’s a good idea to have the alignment checked as insurance. Even if
the factory alignment is within the acceptable range specified by the
vehicle manufacturer, there’s often room for improvement. Resetting
alignment to the "preferred specs" (which means the midrange or optimum
specs) will usually extend tire life -- sometimes significantly.
Considering the high cost of many performance tires today, assuring
maximum tire life with an alignment is money well spent. If you’re
experiencing any kind of steering or handling problem, an alignment
check may be necessary for diagnostic purposes. An important aspect of
aligning the wheels is performing a preliminary alignment inspection of
the suspension and steering linkage. This is necessary to determine if
there are any worn, damaged or mislocated parts. It’s impossible to
realign worn or damaged parts so any such parts must be replaced before
the wheels can be realigned. Wheel alignment is also required when
certain suspension and steering components are replaced. On most cars
with MacPherson struts, the front wheels should be realigned if the
struts are replaced (NOTE: This is not necessary on certain import
vehicles that have replaceable strut cartridges). Alignment is also
required if the tie rods, tie rod ends, idler arm, steering links,
control arms or control arm bushings, steering knuckle or steering rack
have been replaced. Another benefit of having the wheels aligned is to
assure optimum handling and traction for driving safety. Camber, in
particular, is a very important angle with respect to keeping the
tire’s treads in full contact with the road. Tires that lean in or out
ride on the shoulder and reduce traction, cornering ability and tread
life. Camber can even affect braking. Uneven camber or caster side to
side can make a vehicle lead to the left or the right.
My automotive / car engine has too much compression due to excessive carbon buildup. Houston,Tx
When fuel burns, it leaves behind deposits that stick to the combustion
chamber, valves and top of the piston. How quickly the deposits
accumulate depends on the type of driving done and the quality of the
fuel burned. Carbon deposits gradually accumulate in a new engine for
the first 5,000 to 15,000 miles, then level off. A state of equilibrium
is reached where old deposits flake off at about the same rate as new
deposits are formed. However, infrequent driving, infrequent oil
changes or internal engine problems such as worn valve guides, or worn,
broken or improperly seated rings that allow oil burning can greatly
accelerate the accumulation of deposits. This may cause the carbon
deposits to reach a much greater than normal thickness, which in turn
raises compression and causes spark knock or detonation problems. The
deposits may even build up to the point where they cause physical
contact between the piston and head. This, too, can make noise as well
as be very damaging to your engine. Getting Rid Of Deposits To get rid
of the deposits, pour a can of "top cleaner" down the carburetor while
the engine is idling (follow the directions). Allow the chemical to
soak for the recommended period of time, then restart the engine to
blow out the loosened deposits. An oil change afterwards is recommended
because some of the solvent will leak down into the crankcase and
dilute the oil. If chemical cleaning fails to do the trick, it may be
necessary to pull the head and scrape the deposits off. Some shops also
have equipment that allows them to blast deposits loose by blowing a
"soft" blasting media such as crushed walnut shells into the combustion
chamber through the spark plug hole.
What is a automotive / car " valve job " and when is it necessary? Houston,Tx
A valve job is removing the cylinder head(s) from the engine so
the valves, guides and seats can be refurbished to restore compression
and oil control. A valve job may be necessary by the time an engine has
80,000 or more miles on it, or to fix a "burned valve," compression or
oil burning problem. Before we describe all the steps that a typical
valve job involves, we should warn you that some shops don’t necessary
do all the steps. In other words, you get what you pay for. A "cheapie"
valve job might skip a lot of things that saves you a few dollars in
the short run, but may end up costing you a lot more in the long run.
So look for a shop or service facility that does quality work. A valve
job typically begins by disassembling, cleaning and inspecting the
cylinder head. Cast iron heads are "Magnafluxed" to check for hairline
cracks. This involves applying a strong magnetic field to the head and
sprinkling iron powder on it. Cracks disrupt the magnetic field and
attract the iron powder, making invisible cracks easy to see. Cracks
are bad news because they can leak coolant into the combustion chamber
damaging the cylinders and/or causing the engine to lose coolant and
overheat. If cracks are found in any critical areas of the head, the
head must either be repaired or replaced. Cracks in cast iron heads are
most often repaired by "pinning" (installing a series of overlapping
threaded pins). Cracks in aluminum heads are very common and can often
be repaired by welding. If a head has been repaired (pinned or welded),
most shops will usually pressure test the head afterward to make sure
there are no leaks. Some may also apply a sealer compound to the inside
of the water jackets as added insurance against future leaks. Once the
head passes this point, it is also checked for flatness. The surface of
the head must be flat to seal the head gasket against the block.
Excessive warpage, roughness or any damage can cause the head gasket to
fail. If the head exceeds the maximum allowable out-of-flatness specs,
it must be resurfaced or replaced. Usually there’s enough metal in the
head to allow for a certain amount of resurfacing. But on many import
aluminum cylinder heads, the amount of resurfacing that’s possible is
minimal. Overhead cam aluminum cylinder heads are often found to be
warped (usually the result of overheating). If the condition cannot be
corrected by resurfacing, the head can often be straightened by heating
it in a special oven and then bending it until it is straight. Next
come the valves, guides and seats. The guides are checked for wear.
They’re almost always worn, so they either need to be replaced, relined
or knurled (a process whereby grooves are cut into the inside diameter
of the guides to decrease the bore size). Few shops knurl guides
anymore. Most install new guides, guide liners or bore out the old
guides to accept new valves with oversized stems. Aluminum heads have
cast iron or bronze guides that can be replaced but most cast iron
heads do not. If the valves are to be reused, they will be inspected,
checked for straightness then refaced. Many shops automatically replace
all the exhaust valves to reduce the risk of failure (exhaust valves
run much hotter than intakes and are much more likely to fail). The
seats in the head are either cut or ground to restore the sealing
surface. If a seat is cracked or too badly worn to be refaced, the seat
must be replaced. If that isn’t possible (as is the case on many late
model cast iron heads because the casting is too thin), then the entire
head must be replaced. All aluminum heads have hardened steel seats
that can be replaced. The valve springs are all inspected and tested to
make sure they are still capable of maintaining proper pressure. The
spring retainers, keepers and other hardware is likewise inspected. Any
worn or damaged components are replaced. New valve guide seals are
always used. The valves are then installed in the head and shimmed to
restore proper valve height. This is necessary because machining the
valves and seat alters their dimensions. Valve height is important
because it affects valvetrain geometry and guide wear. If it is an
overhead cam engine, the cam is also installed and the valve lash
adjusted prior to returning the head to the customer.
Is it necessary to replace my automotive / car belts periodically? Houston,Tx
Yes. Although the auto makers don’t usually specify a replacement
interval for V-belts or serpentine (flat, multi-ribbed) belts, most
belt manufacturers do recommend periodic replacement for preventative
maintenance. Here’s why: the incidence of belt failure rises sharply in
the fourth year of service for the typical V-belt, and the fifth year
for serpentine belts. What’s more, eight out of ten V-belt failures and
ten out of ten serpentine belt failures end up causing a breakdown!
That’s because belts have the uncanny knack of always picking the worst
possible moment to fail -- like when you’re heading out of town on that
long-awaited fishing trip, when you’re hurrying to pick up a hot date
who told you NOT to be late, or when you’re giving your dear
mother-in-law a ride to church. A broken belt is always bad news
because when it snaps, all drive power to whatever it turns is lost.
That means the water pump quits circulating coolant through the engine,
the alternator quits producing amps, the power steering pump ceases to
assist steering, and the air conditioner quits cooling. Many newer
vehicles have a single serpentine belt that drives all of the engine’s
accessories, so when it fails everything stops working. The good news
is that replacing the belts periodically can go a long way towards
minimizing the risk of a breakdown caused by belt failure. After all,
it’s a lot easier to replace a belt at your convenience than having the
belt fail unexpectedly Heavens knows where. For optimum protection,
most experts recommend replacing V-belts every three to four years, or
every 36,000 to 48,000 miles. A recommended replacement interval for
serpentine belts would be every four or five years, or 50,000 miles.
Belt Life The service life of a V-belt depends on mileage as well as
load, tension and heat. Every time a belt passes around a pulley, it
bends and flexes. This produces heat which age hardens the rubber over
time. The wear process can be greatly accelerated if the belt is loose
and slips because any added friction between belt and pulley makes the
belt run even hotter. This can cause glazing on the faces of the belt
and cause it to slip even more. So one of the most important factors
that affects belt life is making sure it is properly tensioned when it
is installed and that the proper tension is maintained throughout its
service life. Symptoms that may be the result of improper belt tension
include: Belt squeal, especially on the fan, A/C compressor or power
steering drives. A battery that keeps running down (due to belt
slippage). Excessive sidewall wear on a V-belt that causes it to ride
lower than normal in the pulley grooves. Severe cracking along the
underside of a V-belt. Noisy alternator, power steering pump, air pump,
A/C compressor or water pump bearings (from excessive belt tension).
Belt Replacement Replacement V-belts must be the same length and width
as the original. A belt that’s too long or too short may not allow
enough adjustment for proper tension. A belt that’s too wide or too
narrow will not ride at the right depth in the pulley grooves. CAUTION:
When installing a new belt, do not attempt to "stretch" it over
pulleys. Doing so can break the internal cords causing the belt to
fail. Always loosen the pulleys so there is adequate clearance to slip
the belt over the pulleys. Once the belt has been installed on the
pulleys, a belt gauge should be used to adjust belt tension to factory
specifications. The old rule of thumb of allowing 1/2 inch of "give"
between the furthest pulleys is not a very accurate guide for today’s
engines. So follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for belt tension.
Once tension has been adjusted, it should be rechecked and readjusted
(if necessary) after a short break-in period (say after 500 to 1,000
miles of driving). It should then be checked twice a year or every
5,000 or 6,000 miles thereafter. On vehicles with a single serpentine
belt, tension is usually self-adjusted automatically via a spring
loaded tensioner. No additional adjustment is necessary. If your engine
has been eating or twisting belts, misaligned pulleys may be your
problem. Alignment can be checked with a straightedge. If a pulley is
bent or not in the same plane as the rest, the problem should be
corrected otherwise the "bad" pulley will continue to ruin belts.
My Automotive /Car engine has a steady miss and gets terrible fuel milage. What's wrong? Houston, Tx
A steady miss indicates one of three things: a cylinder that
isn’t firing because of an ignition problem, a cylinder that isn’t
firing because it isn’t receiving fuel (multipoint fuel injected
engines only), or a cylinder that has lost compression. The first step
in diagnosing this kind of problem is to identify the dead cylinder. A
professional mechanic can do this quickly by hooking the engine up to
an ignition oscilloscope and displaying an ignition raster pattern. The
dead cylinder will show a firing voltage that is significantly higher
or lower than its companions depending on the nature of the problem. He
might also do a "power balance" test and/or a compression test to find
the dead cylinder. One way you can find a weak or dead cylinder is to
momentarily disconnect each of your engine’s spark plug wires one at a
time while the engine is running. When the plug wire is removed from
the spark plug, there should be a big drop in idle speed and idle
smoothness. When you pull a wire and there’s little or no change in
idle speed or quality, you’ve found the bad cylinder. It makes no
difference whether you remove each plug wire from the spark plug or the
distributor (or coil pack on distributorless ignition systems). The
idea is to simply disconnect each cylinder for a moment to see if it
makes any difference in the way the engine runs. The one that makes no
difference is the problem cylinder. CAUTION: Disconnecting spark plug
wires while the engine is dangerous because you risk getting shocked.
You can minimize this danger one of several ways. One is to wear rubber
gloves and use insulated spark plug wire pliers to momentarily
disconnect each plug wire. Another is to make sure no part of your body
is touching or leaning against any metal surface on the vehicle (the
fender, hood, grille, etc.). Or, you could turn the engine off, remove
a plug wire, restart the engine, note any change in idle, then repeat
for each of the remaining spark plugs. Ignition Diagnosis If you
disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug and hold the end of the
wire close to the plug terminal or other metal surface, you should see
a spark and/or hear a crisp snapping noise if voltage is getting
through the wire. No spark would tell you the plug wire is bad, voltage
is arcing inside the distributor cap (remove and inspect the cap for
cracks and carbon tracks -- replace if any are found) or a dead coil on
a distributorless ignition system (Note: on most distributorless
ignition systems, each coil fires two cylinders. So if both cylinders
are dead, you know for sure the coil is not working. If only one
cylinder is dead, however, it’s not the coil). If all of the plug wires
seem to be sparking okay, the next step would be to remove the spark
plug in the problem cylinder. Fouling is a common cause of ignition
misfire. Examine the end of the plug. If the electrode is covered with
deposits, clean or replace the spark plug. Also, note the type of
deposits on the plug. Thick, black, wet or oily-looking deposits would
tell you the cylinder is burning oil (probably due to worn valve
guides, rings and/or cylinder wall). If the deposits are a powdery
black, the cylinder is running too rich (probably due to a leaky
injector on a multipoint fuel injected engine). If the deposits are
brown or gray, it indicates a normal buildup. However, the plug may be
fouled because it hasn’t been changed for a long time, because it is
the wrong "heat range" for your engine application (you need a hotter
plug), or because of frequent short trip stop-and-go driving. In any
event, if the plug is fouled you should probably remove, inspect and
clean or replace all of the spark plugs. Fuel Diagnosis If the dead
cylinder is receiving spark through the plug wire and the spark plug
itself appears to be okay (not wet or fouled), and your engine has
multipoint fuel injection you may have a dead fuel injector. To check
for this kind of problem, start the engine and place your finger on the
injector. You should feel a buzzing vibration if the injector is
working. No buzz means the injector is either defective or it is not
receiving a voltage signal through its wiring harness. You can check
for the presence of voltage with a 12 volt test light or voltmeter.
Disconnect the injector wiring connector and attach the test light or
voltmeter between the injector and connector. If the light doesn’t
flash or you don’t see a voltage reading when the engine is running, it
indicates a wiring or computer problem that will require further
diagnosis. If voltage is getting through but the injector isn’t
working, then the injector is defective and needs to be replaced.
Sometimes the injector will appear to be working but really isn’t. It
will be receiving voltage and buzzing as normal, but because it is
clogged up with varnish deposits little or no fuel is actually being
squirted into the cylinder. If ignition and compression are both okay
in the bad cylinder, therefore, it would tell you the injector is
clogged. On-car cleaning may reopen the clogged injector is the varnish
isn’t built up too thick. But a completely clogged injector usually
doesn’t respond well to this type of cleaning. It either has to be
removed for off-car cleaning (which may or may not succeed id reopening
it) or be replaced. Compression Diagnosis If the dead cylinder is
getting spark and fuel, the only thing that’s left is a compression
problem. The most likely causes here would be a leaky valve (probably
an exhaust valve since they run much hotter than intake valves and
usually fail or "burn" first), a blown head gasket (this usually
involves two adjacent cylinders, however), or a rounded or badly worn
cam lobe. A compression check will verify if the cylinder is developing
its normal compression. Little or no compression would verify any of
the above problems. A leakage test could also be used to further
diagnose and identify the nature of the problem (valves, head gasket or
cam). Air leakage through the exhaust port would indicate a bad exhaust
valve. Air leakage back through the intake manifold would indicate a
bad intake valve. Air leaking into an adjacent cylinder would indicate
a blown head gasket. Minimal leakage would indicate a rounded cam lobe.
Leaky valves would require removing the cylinder head and having a
valve job performed. A leaky head gasket would require removing the
head and replacing the gasket (and probably resurfacing the head to
restore flatness). A cam problem would require removing and replacing
the camshaft and lifters (old lifters should never be reused with a new
cam).
Automotive / Car Fuel injectors are dirty and need to be cleaned. Houston,Tx
"Dirty" is actually a misnomer. Rarely are injectors clogged with
dirt. Rather, they are usually clogged or restricted by a buildup of
fuel varnish deposits. This reduces the amount of fuel that the
injector sprays, which in turn may cause the engine to run lean and
misfire, hesitate or stall. A fuel injector is nothing more than spray
nozzle. With mechanical injectors, a spring loaded valve allows fuel to
squirt out of the nozzle when line pressure overcomes spring tension
that holds the valve shut. With electronic injectors, a spring-loaded
solenoid pulls open a pintle valve or ball type valve when the injector
is energized by the computer. This allows the pressurized fuel in the
fuel rail to flow through the injector and squirt out the nozzle.
Injectors come in a variety of styles. Early Bosch style injectors have
a pintle valve and are the ones most prone to clogging. In 1989,
General Motors introduced its new "Multec" style injectors which have a
ball valve design and are claimed to be more resistant to clogging.
Other injectors have a disc-valve design that is also said to resist
clogging. The truth is ANY injector can clog. Nobody’s injectors are
immune to this kind of problem, but some are obviously better than
others. Problems can occur even with a slight buildup of deposits.
Because the injector orifice is so small, it doesn’t take much crud to
restrict the flow of fuel or to disrupt the spray pattern. For good
combustion, the injectors must produce a fine cone-shaped mist of fuel
vapor. Wear or deposits in the nozzle can create "streamers" of liquid
fuel that vaporize and burn poorly. This, in turn, can cause
hesitation, emissions and performance problems. Injector Cleaning The
cure for a set of clogged injectors is cleaning -- or replacement if
they’re too badly clogged to respond to cleaning. Injectors are
expensive to replace. New domestic injectors sell for $60 to $100 each,
with new import injectors fetching $125 to $175 each. Injectors should
only be replaced as a last resort. If your injectors are clogged, they
can be cleaned with pressurized solvent, or removed for off-car
cleaning. There are also fuel tank additives that claim to clean
clogged injectors, but the cleaning such products do is usually
minimal. So save your money and put it towards a professional cleaning.
There are do-it-yourself on-car injector pressure cleaning kits that
are similar to the equipment professionals use. But some of these kits
can be tricky or even dangerous to use. Our advice is to let a
professional do it. On-car injector cleaning involves feeding solvent
under pressure into the injector fuel rail or supply line. The
concentrated solvent passes through the injectors and loosens and
washes away the accumulated varnish deposits. The results are usually
good, and make a noticeable difference in idle smoothness, emissions
and fuel economy. If your injectors are really clogged and fail to
respond well to on-car cleaning, off-car cleaning using special fuel
injection cleaning equipment would be the next logical option. Some of
this equipment is designed to "reverse" flush the injectors so any
debris that’s trapped inside the injector or above the inlet screen
will also be removed. Off-car cleaning also allows a mechanic to
observe the spray pattern of the injectors to make sure there aren’t
any streamers or problems. Off-car cleaning is more expensive because
of the labor involved to remove the injectors, but the results are
usually better. Keeping Injectors Clean The best way to minimize or
eliminate the need for injector cleaning is to use a quality brand of
gasoline that contains sufficient detergent to prevent varnish buildup.
Most brand name gasolines today have enough detergent to do this. As a
rule, premium grades usually contain a somewhat higher concentration of
cleaners. You can also use fuel tank additives to keep your injectors
clean. Such products really aren’t necessary if you’re using quality
gasoline. But if you’re buying the cheapest gas you can find, using an
additive might be good insurance.
How can I tell if my automotive / car fuel filter needs to be replaced? Houston,Tx
The only way to tell for sure is to remove the filter and blow
through it. If there’s little resistance, the filter is still okay and
does not need to be replaced. But if there’s more than minimal
resistance, the filter is dirty and should be replaced. CAUTION:
Gasoline is poisonous, does not taste very good and may burn sensitive
lips. So don’t hold the filter to your mouth to blow through it.
Instead, attach a short piece of clean rubber hose to the filter and
then blow through the hose to test the filter. Filter Problems A
completely plugged fuel filter will stop your engine cold by choking
off the flow of fuel to the carburetor or injectors. The engine may not
start, or it may start, then stall and die. Some filters have a
spring-loaded bypass, however, that allows fuel to bypass the filter
element if it becomes clogged. Fuel continues to flow, but it may carry
dirt to the carburetor or injectors, which can create additional
problems. A partially restricted filter will usually pass enough fuel
to keep the engine running at idle or low speed, but may starve the
engine for fuel at higher speeds or loads. So your engine may run fine
putting around town, but sputter and lack power when you try to drive
at highway speeds or pass someone. Tank Filter Located inside the fuel
tank is a screen or mesh sock that acts like a prefilter to keep big
pieces of dirt and rust from being drawn into the fuel pickup tube or
tank-mounted electric fuel pump. If the screen becomes clogged with
debris, it can have the same effect as a plugged or dirty fuel filter.
Therefore, if you’ve been experiencing a fuel starvation problem and
have replaced the fuel filter -- and it didn’t help -- the screen in
the tank is probably the culprit. To clean or replace it, the fuel tank
usually has to be removed. WARNING: The fuel tank must be drained prior
to removal. The fuel must be stored in a sealed "approved" container.
The battery should also be disconnected to prevent any accidental
sparks from an in-tank electric fuel pump connection from igniting the
vapors. Do not smoke when working on the fuel tank, filter or fuel
lines, and keep all other sources of ignition away (electric heaters,
pilot lights, etc.) from the work area. Filter Replacement Replacing
the fuel filter periodically (every year or so) for preventative
maintenance can reduce the risk of filter-related driveability
problems. Most vehicle manufacturers, however, no longer specify a
replacement interval for the fuel filter. Or, if they do it’s some
incredibly long interval like once every five years or 50,000 miles.
Many mechanics feel this is unrealistic. Waiting that long to change
the filter is asking for trouble, especially if you drive on gravel or
dirt roads, buy the cheapest gas you can find from "cut-rate" stations,
use gas with alcohol in it, or your vehicle is more than six or seven
years old and may have rust in the tank. The fuel filter on carbureted
engines is usually located at the inlet fitting of the carburetor, or
an "in-line" filter is used between the fuel pump and carburetor. When
replacing a filter that screws into the inlet fitting on the
carburetor, be careful not to overtighten the filter. The threads in
the carburetor are relatively soft and can be easily stripped. But also
make sure the filter is snug so that it doesn’t leak. It’s okay to
apply some gasket sealer to the filter threads to assure a leak-free
connection. But do not use RTV silicone sealer (which gasoline
dissolves) or teflon tape (pieces of which can flake loose and end up
in the carburetor). When replacing an in-line filter, most filters come
with two new rubber hoses that go on either side of the filter. Use
them. Don’t reuse the old hoses because rubber hoses deteriorate over
time and can leak or shed small flakes or rubber that can end up in the
filter or carburetor. Also, make sure the hose clamps are properly
positioned and tight. NOTE: Most in-line filters have an arrow showing
the direction fuel should flow through the filter. Install the filter
so the arrow points toward the carburetor. Fuel Injection Filters Fuel
filters on fuel injected engines are usually larger and have a finer
filter element than those on carbureted engines. Consequently, they are
usually more expensive. The filter may be located anywhere between the
fuel tank and injector fuel supply rail or throttle body. On many cars,
light trucks and minivans, the filter is located underneath the vehicle
along a frame rail. On some, the filter is part of the electric fuel
pump assembly inside the fuel tank! Refer to a shop manual for your
fuel filter’s location. CAUTION: Fuel injected engines usually have a
lot of residual pressure in the fuel line, even when a vehicle has sat
overnight. So either follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedure
for relieving pressure in the line prior to removing the filter
(applying vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator manifold fitting, or
cranking the engine with the ignition disabled), or wrap a rag around
the hose connections and slowly loosen them. If the filter has an arrow
indicating the direction of flow, it should be installed with the arrow
pointing toward the engine and away from the fuel tank. If the filter
is located inside the tank, the tank will probably have to be removed.
Follow the same precautions as previously described for replacing a
plugged pickup screen.
How often should I change my automotive /car fuel filter? Houston,Tx
For high mileage vehicles, replacing the fuel filter annually for
preventative maintenance is a good idea for two reasons. By the time a
vehicle is six or seven years old, there can be a fair amount of rust
and debris in the fuel tank. Rust can be formed by moisture and
condensation, and debris can get into your tank anytime you add fuel.
So changing it on a periodic basis can help minimize the risk of
plugging. Most newer vehicles do not have a specified interval for
replacing the fuel filter. In fact, some even have "lifetime" filters
that supposedly never need to be changed. But any filter can plug up if
enough rust or debris gets sucked into the fuel inlet. Gasoline is
supposed to be filtered at the pump. But it sometimes isn’t. What’s
more, the fuel you put in your tank may be contaminated with water from
leaky underground storage tanks, improperly mixed alcohol blends, or
even watered-down by an unscrupulous operator who’s trying to make a
fast buck. So there are no guarantees. Replacing the filter
periodically for preventative maintenance is simply insurance that
reduces the risk of it plugging up. Given enough time, every filter
will eventually reach the end of its service life. Even the filter in a
brand new vehicle right off the showroom floor is at risk if the owner
happens to get a dirty tank of fuel. Filter Inspection If you don’t
want to replace the filter unnecessarily, you can remove it and check
it to see if it passes air easily (More information on replacing fuel
filtersis available). If the filter creates any significant resistance
when you blow through it, it needs to be replaced.
How can I tell if my automotive / car catalytic converter is working properly? Houston,Tx
The catalytic converter is our main line of defense against air
pollution, so it’s important to make sure it is functioning efficiently
and passing exhaust without creating undue restrictions that might
reduce performance, fuel economy or emissions. That’s one of the
reasons for periodic vehicle emissions testing. If the converter isn’t
working, you won’t pass the test. If the your converter is plugged, it
will create a restriction in your exhaust system. The buildup of
backpressure will cause a drastic drop in engine performance and fuel
economy, and may even cause the engine to stall after it starts if the
blockage is severe. The easiest test for converter plugging is done
with a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to a source of intake vacuum on
the intake manifold, carburetor or throttle body. Note the reading at
idle, then raise and hold engine speed at 2,500. The needle will drop
when you first open the throttle, but should then rise and stabilize.
If the vacuum reading starts to drop, pressure may be backing up in the
exhaust system. You can also try to measure backpressure directly. If
your engine has air injection, disconnect the check valve from the
distribution manifold, and connect a low pressure gauge. Or, remove the
oxygen sensor and take your reading at its hole in the manifold or
headpipe. Refer to the backpressure specs for the application.
Generally speaking, more than 1.25 psi of backpressure at idle, or more
than 3 psi at 2,000 rpm tells you there’s an exhaust restriction. If
there appears to be an exhaust restriction, disconnect the exhaust pipe
just aft of the converter to relieve pressure and recheck the readings.
CAUTION: The pipes will be hot so wait awhile for things to cool down.
If vacuum goes up and/or backpressure drops, the problem isn’t not a
plugged converter but a plugged muffler or collapsed pipe. If there’s
little or no change in readings, the converter is plugged. Just because
a converter is passing gas doesn’t mean it is okay. If the catalyst
inside is contaminated or worn out, high carbon monoxide (CO) and/or
hydrocarbon (HC) readings will be present in the exhaust. If you have
access to a high temperature digital pyrometer (or an oven thermometer
will do), check the converter’s temperature fore and aft. A good
converter will usually run 100 degrees F hotter at its outlet than its
inlet. Little or no temperature change would indicate low efficiency,
or a problem with the converter’s air supply. Converters need
supplemental oxygen in the exhaust to reburn pollutants, so if the air
injection system or aspirator valve isn’t doing its job the converter
can’t do its job either. Check the air injection pump, belt and check
valve. If you suspect that the check valve is allowing exhaust to flow
backwards, remove it and blow through both ends. It should let air pass
in one direction, but not in the other. Examine the air injection
manifold, too, because it tends to rust out and leak air. Check the
diverter valve to make sure it is working correctly, too. It should be
routing air to the converter when the engine is at normal temperature.
On engines with aspirator valves instead of air pumps, you should hear
and/or feel the fluttering of the internal flapper as the engine is
idling. Causes Of Converter Failures Fouling, clogging, melt-down and
breakage of the ceramic substrate inside a converter are common
conditions that can cause problems. Plugging is usually the end result
of a melt-down, which occurs because the converter gets too hot. This
happens because the engine is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust.
The excess fuel lights off inside the converter and sends temperatures
soaring. If it gets hot enough, the ceramic substrate that carries the
catalyst melts. The unburned fuel may be getting into the exhaust
because of a bad spark plug or valve, but an overly rich air/fuel
mixture is another possibility. In older carbureted engines, a heavy or
misadjusted carburetor float may be the underlying cause. But on newer
engines with "feedback" carburetion or electronic fuel injection, the
engine may not be going into "closed loop" (the normal mode where the
computer regulates the air/fuel mixture to minimize emissions). A bad
oxygen sensor or coolant sensor may be giving the computer bogus
information. A sluggish or dead O2 sensor will make the computer think
the exhaust is running lean, so the computer will try to compensate by
making the fuel mixture rich. A coolant sensor that always indicates a
cold engine will also keep the system in open loop, which means a
steady diet of excess fuel. But it might not be the sensor’s fault. A
thermostat that’s stuck open or is too cold for the application can
prevent the engine from reaching its normal operating temperature. So
if your converter has failed and needs to be replaced, the engine
should be diagnosed for any underlying problems before the new
converter is installed. Another cause of converter clogging and
contamination is excessive oil consumption. Worn valve guides or seals
can allow oil to be sucked into the engine’s combustion chambers. The
same goes for worn or damaged rings or cylinders. Oil can form a great
deal of carbon, and metals present in the oil can contaminate the
catalyst. A compression check or leak-down test will tell you if the
rings are leaking, while a fluttering vacuum gauge needle will help you
identify worn valve guides.
My automotive / car keeps blowing fuses. Should I install a larger fuse? Houston,Tx
Not unless you are willing to risk electrical damage or a fire! A
fuse is a protection device that is designed to blow if the amp load in
a circuit exceeds the "safe" limit for that circuit. Fuses are built
with a specific amp rating which is marked on the fuse. The wiring and
design load of the circuit dictates the size of fuse that’s required to
protect the circuit. Circuits that draw a lot of power need fuses with
high amp ratings (20 or 30 amps) while those that use minimal power
require smaller fuses (5 to 15 amps). When the current in a circuit
exceeds the normal limit for whatever reason, the metal element in the
fuse melts and opens the circuit stopping the flow of current. A short,
for example, causes a runaway electrical current. If not stopped, wires
can start to melt and things can catch on fire. So respect the amp
ratings specified for fuses (which can usually be found in your vehicle
owners manual, on the fuse block itself or a fuse block reference
decal). What happens if you install a fuse with the wrong amp rating?
If you install a 20 amp fuse in a circuit designed for 10 amps, you’re
asking for trouble. A difference of 10 amps might not sound like much,
but it may be enough to fry a sensitive electronic component or to
overheat wires to the point where the insulation may start to melt.
WARNING: Under no circumstances should you ever bypass or eliminate a
fuse. No electrical circuit should ever be operated without fuse
protection. This is extremely dangerous, especially if you’ve had
problems with a fuse blowing before. If a fuse keeps blowing, it
usually means something is amiss in the circuit. The wiring should be
checked along with the components in the circuit to determine if
there’s a short or other problem. The fuse for the windshield wiper
circuit, for example, may blow if ice or debris builds up in the cowl
areas and interferes with the movement of the wiper arms. If a fuse
blows in a motor circuit (heater blower motor, cooling fan motor, power
seat or window, electric fuel pump, etc.), it often indicates a shorted
motor. If a fuse in a light circuit blows, look for wiring or connector
shorts. Adding driving lights may also overtax the headlight circuit
unless a separate circuit is provided for the driving lights. An A/C
fuse will blow if the system is low on refrigerant and is working
unusually hard, or if the compressor is hanging up. Stereo systems with
high amp boosters should also have their own electrical circuit with
fuse protection to avoid overloading the normal radio circuit.
My automotive / car has two fuse panels,one under the instrument panel and one in the engine compartment. Houston,Tx
The fuse panel inside the vehicle is usually for the headlights
and electrical accessories such as the heater, radio, power windows,
seats, defroster, etc., while the one under the hood (which is
sometimes called the "power distribution center") is for high amp
systems such as the ignition circuit, fuel injectors, starter motor,
fuel pump and antilock brake system Most domestic cars built up until
the late 1980s had only the one fuse panel inside the vehicle. The
other high amperage electrical circuits were typically protected by
"fusible links," special pieces of wire that were designed to melt just
like a fuse if the circuit was overloaded. The Japanese and Europeans
started using a separate fuse panel under the hood for the
engine-related circuits almost a decade before the domestic automakers
primarily because most of these vehicles were fuel injected. As fuel
injection became more common on domestic-built cars, the need for a
second fuse panel became obvious and fusible links were soon replaced
with fuses. The fuses under the hood are typically large capacity fuses
(30 amps or more) while those inside a vehicle are typically 20 amps or
less.
On my automotive / car I have a bad voltage regulator, and do I have to replace my engine alternator? Houston,Tx
The voltage regulator controls or regulates the alternator’s
output. Think of it as the brains of the charging system. It senses how
much voltage is needed by your vehicle, then modifies the field current
within the alternator so it puts out just the right amount of current.
Too little current can allow the battery to run down while too much can
damage it and other electrical and electronic components. When the
regulator fails, the charging system usually ceases to function --
except in cases where the nature of the failure causes the alternator
to run wild and overcharge the battery. In any event, the only cure for
a dead or defective regulator is replacement. In older vehicles, the
regulator was a separate component usually mounted somewhere in the
engine compartment. If this type of regulator failed, it could be
easily replaced in a matter of minutes with a new one. But for the last
decade or more, most regulators have been mounted in or on the
alternator itself. This was done by the vehicle manufacturers to
simplify wiring and assembly. It was also made possible by advances in
electronics that allowed the regulator to be reduced in size to a small
chip. Charging systems that have a separate regulator mounted away from
the alternator are referred to as "externally regulated" charging
systems while those that have the regulator in or on the alternator are
called "internally regulated" charging systems. On some vehicles there
is no regulator at all! Voltage regulation is controlled by the engine
computer. Unfortunately, internally regulated alternators are packaged
as a unit -- which means that if either component fails (alternator or
regulator) both must be replaced. This is because internal regulators
are not available separately (at least not to the general public or the
typical service facility). Electrical shops and remanufacturers who
rebuild alternators can get them and can replace the regulator
separately if that’s all that’s wrong with the unit -- but they’ll
usually charge you the same as if you bought a rebuilt alternator. The
truth is, the high cost of labor today has made it impractical for most
service facilities to fool around trying to rebuild or repair
components like alternators, starters, carburetors, front-wheel
driveshafts, transmissions and even engines. It’s faster, easier and
usually cheaper to simply replace the old unit with a new or
remanufactured one than to try to overhaul or fix it. Besides, most new
and remanufactured parts come with a guarantee.
My automotive / car battery keeps running down. Does that mean I need a new battery? Houston,Tx
It might, but then again it might not. The only way to know for
sure is to (1) test the condition of the battery to see if it is
capable of holding a charge, (2) check the output of the charging
system to see if it is functioning properly, and (3) if the battery and
charging system are okay, check for a possible current drain on the
battery when the key is off. In other words, if the battery is okay and
the charging system is doing its job, then something is draining
voltage from the battery and running it down when the key is off. One
way to check the battery is to recharge it, then let it sit for a day
with both battery cables disconnected. If the battery holds the charge
and doesn’t run down, it’s probably okay, and the problem is in your
charging system or wiring. To see if the charging system is working
properly, start the car and turn on the headlights. If the headlights
are dim, it indicates the lights are running off the battery and that
little or no juice is being produced by the alternator. If the lights
get brighter as you rev the engine, it means the alternator is
producing some current, but may not be producing enough at idle to keep
the battery properly charged. If the lights have normal brightness and
don’t change intensity as the engine is revved, your charging system is
functioning normally. You can also check the charging system by
connecting the leads of a voltmeter to the battery. When the engine
starts, the charging voltage should jump to about 14.5 or higher. If
the reading doesn’t change or rises less than a volt, you have a
charging problem that will require further diagnosis. If the battery
and charging system seem to be working normally, the only thing that’s
left is the electrical system. If the battery runs down overnight or
when the vehicle sits for several days, it means something is remaining
on and drawing current when the ignition is turned off. It may be a
trunk light or cigarette lighter that remains on all the time, a fuel
pump relay or other relay with frozen contacts that’s drawing current,
a rear window defroster that doesn’t shut off, or a short in the radio
or other electrical accessory. All vehicles draw a little current from
the battery when the key is off to run the clock, keep the memory alive
in a digital radio (so it doesn’t forget the station settings) and the
engine computer. Alarm systems need current to keep their circuits
armed as do cellular phones. Current drain on the battery can be
checked with an ammeter. Make sure the ignition is off, then disconnect
one of the battery cables. Connect one ammeter lead to the battery and
the other to the cable. The normal current drain on most vehicles
should be about 25 milliamps or less. If the key-off drain exceeds 100
milliamps, there’s an electrical problem that requires further
diagnosis. Finding the hidden current drain can be time consuming. The
easiest way to isolate the problem is to pull one fuse at a time from
the fuse panel until the ammeter reading drops. This will tell you
which circuit is draining the battery. Then you have to check the
wiring and each of the components in that circuit to pinpoint the
problem.
Is there any danger to me or my automotive / car vehicle if I give someone a "jump start"? Houston,Tx
Yes. The danger to you is a battery explosion. Batteries contain
hydrogen gas, which can ignite and explode if a spark occurs anywhere
near the battery. Batteries also contain acid which may be splashed on
you if the battery explodes. The danger to your vehicle is if someone
reverses the jumper connections or touches the jumper cables together.
The voltage surge that results may damage your charging system and/or
other electronic components in your vehicle. To minimize these risks,
use the following procedure when jump : Do not smoke. You should also
wear eye protection. Make sure the vehicles are not touching (contact
could provide an unwanted electrical path). Turn your engine off.
Connect the red jumper cable from the positive (+) post or terminal on
your "good" battery to the positive post or terminal on the low or dead
battery in the other vehicle. Connect the black jumper cable from the
negative (-) post or terminal on your good battery to a solid ground on
the other vehicle. CAUTION: DO NOT make the final jumper connection
directly to the low or dead battery itself. The reason for not doing
this is because the final jumper connection usually produces a spark.
Making the final connection away from the battery will minimize any
danger of an explosion by keeping the spark well away from the battery.
Make sure the ground connection on the vehicle with the low or dead
battery provides a good electrical contact. Use an unpainted metal
surface like an engine bracket or a frame member. Make sure the cables
do not touch each other and that the cables are clear of the fan and
pulleys on both vehicles. Start the engine in the vehicle with the good
battery. Run the engine at fast idle for several minutes before
attempting to start the vehicle with the low or dead battery. This will
allow the charging system to pump some life into the other battery
lessening the drain on the good battery and charging system. As soon as
the vehicle with the dead battery starts, disconnect the battery
cables. The vehicle should then be run or driven at least thirty
minutes to recharge the low or dead battery. Additional charging time
may be required depending on the battery’s condition and state of
charge. If the vehicle does not crank or cranks slowly, recheck the
jumper connections. If it still doesn’t crank, the problem may be
something other then the battery (such as a bad starter, solenoid,
battery cable connection or internal engine problem). If the vehicle
cranks normally, but refuses to start, it may have an ignition, fuel or
mechanical problem. Do not crank the starter more than thirty seconds
at a stretch. Allow the starter to cool for about two minutes before
cranking the engine again. Continuous grinding of the starter can cause
it to overheat and fail. Continuous cranking can also sap the juice out
of your good battery and/or overload and possibly damage your charging
system, too!
Does a replacement automotive /car battery have to be the same size as my old one? Houston,Tx
No. If your old battery has reached the end of the road and needs
to be replaced, or if you think you need a battery with a bigger amp
capacity for easier cold weather starting or to handle added electrical
accessories (such as a killer stereo system, driving lights, etc.),
then there’s no reason why you have to install a battery that’s the
same size as your old one. The word "size" may be a bit confusing here
because what we’re really talking about is the battery’s amp or power
rating, not the physical dimensions of its case. A battery with a
bigger case is not necessarily a more powerful battery. Battery
manufacturers can cram a lot of amps into a relatively small box by
varying the design of the cell plates and grids. So two batteries with
identical exterior dimensions may have significantly different power
ratings. Batteries come in many different sizes and configurations
(which are referred to as "group" sizes) because the vehicle
manufacturers can’t get together and standardize anything. So when
you’re choosing a battery, you have to consider three things: (1) the
group size (height, width, length and post configuration), (2) whether
your battery has top or side posts, and (3) how many amps will be
needed for reliable cold starting and vehicle operation. Group Sizes
Because there are 57 different group sizes, many aftermarket
replacement battery suppliers consolidate group sizes to simplify
inventory requirements. So some replacement batteries may not fit
exactly the same as the original. The battery may be slightly shorter,
taller, narrower or wider than the original. But as long as it fits the
battery tray and there are no interference problems (too tall a battery
may cause the cables to make contact with the hood causing a dangerous
and damaging electrical short!), it should work fine. Some replacement
batteries come with both side and top posts to further consolidate
applications. Some also have folding handles to make handling and
installation easier. Battery Ratings Though many replacement batteries
are marketed by the number of "months" of warranty coverage provided
(36, 48, 60, etc.), what’s more important in terms of performance is
the battery’s power rating which is usually specified in "Cold Cranking
Amps" (CCA) rating. The CCA rating tells you how many amps the battery
can deliver at 0 degree F. for 30 seconds and still maintain a minimum
voltage of 1.2v. per cell. In the past, the rule of thumb was to always
buy a battery with a rating of at least one CCA per cubic inch of
engine displacement. But twice that is probably a better recommendation
for reliable cold weather starting. At the very least, you should buy a
replacement battery with the same or better CCA rating as your old
battery or one that meets the vehicle manufacturer’s requirements. For
most small four-cylinder engines, this would be a 450 CCA or larger
battery, for a six cylinder application, a 550 CCA or larger battery,
and for a V8 a 650 CCA or larger battery. Bigger is usually better.
Extra battery capacity is recommended if your vehicle has a lot of
electrical accessories such as air conditioning, power windows, seats,
electric rear defogger, etc. Battery Installation Most batteries are
"dry charged" at the factory, which means they’re activated as soon as
acid is poured into the cells. Even so, the battery may require some
charging to bring it all the way up to full charge. Most experts
recommend charging the battery before it is installed regardless of
whether it is dry charged or not. This will ensure the battery is at
full charge and lessen the strain on your charging system. When the
battery is installed, it must be locked down and held securely by a
clamp, strap or bracket. This will not only keep the battery from
sliding around on its tray (which might allow the positive cable to
touch against something and short out the battery or start a fire!),
but will also help to minimize vibration that can damage the battery.
The battery cables should also be inspected to make sure they’re in
good condition, too. If the cables are badly corroded, don’t fit the
battery posts or terminals tightly, or have been "fixed" by installing
temporary clamps on the ends, the cables should be replaced. At the
very least, you should clean the cable clamps and battery posts with a
post cleaner, sandpaper or a wire brush to ensure good electrical
contact. A light coating of grease, petroleum jelly and/or installing
chemically treated felt washers under the cable clamps will help
prevent corrosion
Pulsation or vibration in the automotive / car brake pedal. Houston,Tx
A pulsating brake pedal, which may be accompanied by a shuddering
or jerky stop during normal braking, usually means a warped rotor or an
out-of-round drum -- although it can sometimes be caused by loose wheel
bearings, a bent axle shaft or loose brake parts. If the vehicle is
equipped with ABS, however, some pedal feedback and noise is normal
during panic stops or when braking on wet or slick surfaces. But you
should not experience any ABS pedal feedback when braking normally on
dry pavement. The faces of a disc brake rotor must be parallel (within
.0005 inch on most cars) and flat (no more than about .002 to .005
inches of runout) otherwise it will kick the brake pads in and out when
the brakes are applied, producing a pulsation or vibration that can be
felt in the brake pedal as the rotor alternately grabs and slips. You
can often see warpage in a brake rotor by simply looking at it. If the
rotor has telltale glazed or discolored patches on its face, chances
are it is warped. Measuring it with a dial indicator and checking it
for flatness with a straight edge will confirm the diagnosis.
Resurfacing the rotor to restore the faces will usually eliminate the
pulsation (unless the rotor is bent or is badly worn and has started to
collapse in which case the rotor must be replaced). But it may only do
so temporarily because of metallurgical changes that take place in the
rotor. Hard spots often extend below the surface of the rotor.
Resurfacing will restore the surface, but the hard spot may reappear
again in a few thousand miles as the rotor wears. For this reason, GM
and others recommend replacing warped rotors rather than resurfacing
them. Pedal pulsation caused by drum warpage isn’t as common, but it
can happen. A drum can sometimes be warped out-of-round by applying the
parking brake when the brakes are hot. As the drum cools, the force of
the shoes causes the drum to distort. What causes a rotor to warp?
Overtorquing or unevenly torquing the lug nuts with an impact wrench is
a common cause. For this reason, most experts recommend using a torque
wrench to tighten lug nuts when changing a wheel. There are also
special torque-limiting extension sockets called "Torque Sticks" that
can be safely used with an impact wrench to accurately tighten lug
nuts. But a plain impact wrench should never be used for the final
tightening of the lug nuts because most provide no control whatsoever
over the amount of torque applied to the nuts. Overheating can also
cause rotors to warp. Overheating may be the result of severe abuse or
dragging brakes. Defects in the rotor casting, such as thick and thin
areas can also cause uneven cooling that leads to warpage. Hard spots
in the metal due to casting impurities can be yet another cause.
Replacing the automotive / car tires,do I have to use the same size as the originals? Houston,Tx
On ABS-equipped vehicles, all vehicle manufacturers recommend
using the same size and aspect ratio tire as the original. ABS systems
monitor the rotational speed of the tires through individual wheel
speed sensors. Changing to an oversize tire with a taller diameter than
stock would cause the tires to rotate at a slightly slower speed
relative to vehicle speed than the stock tires. Changing to a low
profile tire with a shorter diameter would cause the tires to rotate at
a slightly faster speed relative to vehicle speed. Though the
difference either way isn’t much, it may be enough to upset the
calibration of the ABS system and have an adverse effect on its ability
to detect and prevent skids. Another reason for not changing tire sizes
is because it can affect the speedometer, odometer and transmission
shift points on a vehicle with an electronic automatic. Oversize tires
will make your speedometer read slower than normal (which may get you a
speeding ticket unless you have the speedometer recalibrated to
compensate for the change in tire size!). Smaller diameter tires will
make the speedometer read faster than normal, and increase the mileage
readings on your odometer at a faster than normal rate. All this
doesn’t mean you can’t change tire and wheel sizes, however. If you
maintain the same overall tire diameter as before, you can switch to
larger wheels with a shorter aspect ratio tire. This is the basic idea
behind "Plus 1, Plus 2" tire and wheel sizing. Replacing a stock
14-inch wheel and 70 series tire with a 15-inch 60 series tire would be
Plus 1. Plus 2 would be moving up to a 16-inch wheel and possibly a 50
series tire. Plus 3 would be going to the new 17-inch tire and rim
combination -- which could turn out to be a Plus 4 application if the
vehicle originally had 13-inch wheels. Aspect Ratio The "aspect ratio"
of a tire is the ratio of its section height to its section width. The
smaller the number, the shorter the sidewall and the wider the tire.
Low aspect ratio tires started with 60 series some time ago, then
progressed to 50 series and now 45, 40 and even 35 series tires.
Shorter aspect ratio tires (60 and less) are usually considered to be
performance tires because they lower vehicle ride height, have a wider
tread and put more rubber on the road to improve handling. But the
shorter the sidewall, the harsher the tire rides. A tire’s ability to
support a given load depends on its air volume. If you go to a lower
aspect ratio tire with a shorter sidewall, the tire must be wider to
maintain the same air volume. If you just go to a shorter aspect ratio
tire without increasing width, the load carrying capacity goes down.
That’s why when you go from a standard wheel to a Plus 1 wheel, the rim
is usually wider to accommodate a wider tire. It’s important to follow
the tire manufacturer’s recommendations as to load capacities when
going to larger wheel and tire sizes. There’s no hard rule that says
you have to drop 10 points in aspect ratio when increasing wheel size
one inch, but that’s the general recommendation.
My automotive / car brakes are squealing. Does that mean I need a brake job? Houston,Tx
Not necessarily. A certain amount of brake noise is considered
"normal" these days because of the harder semi-metallic brake pads that
are used in most front-wheel drive cars and minivans. This type of
noise does not affect braking performance and does not indicate a brake
problem. However, if the noise is objectionable, there are ways to
eliminate it. Brake squeal is caused by vibration between the brake
pads, rotors and calipers. Pad noise can be lessened or eliminated by
installing "noise suppression shims" (thin self-adhesive strips) on the
backs of the pads, or applying "noise suppression compound" on the
backs of the pads to dampen vibrations. Additional steps that can be
taken to eliminate noise are to resurface the rotors and replace the
pads. Some brands of semi-metallic pads are inherently noisier than
others because of the ingredients used in the manufacture of the
friction material. Strange as it may sound (pardon the pun), cheaper
pads are sometimes quieter than premium quality or original equipment
pads. That’s because the cheaper pads contain softer materials that do
not wear as well. For that reason, they are not recommended. Premium
quality pads should cause no noise problems when installed properly and
will give you better brake performance and longer life. Conditions that
can contribute to a disc brake noise problem include glazed or worn
rotors, too rough a finish on resurfaced rotors, loose brake pads,
missing pad insulators, shims, springs or antirattle clips, rusty or
corroded caliper mounts, worn caliper mounts, and loose caliper
mounting hardware. Drum noise may be due to loose or broken parts
inside the drum. Most experts recommend new caliper and drum hardware
when the brakes are relined, a thorough inspection of the calipers and
rotors for any wear or other conditions that might have an adverse
affect on noise or brake performance, and resurfacing the rotors (and
drums) if the surfaces are not smooth, flat and parallel. If you hear
metallic scraping noises, on the other hand, it usually means your
brake linings are worn out and need to be replaced -- especially if
your brake pedal feels low or if you’ve noticed any change in the way
your vehicle brakes (it pulls to one side when braking, it requires
more pedal effort, etc.). Some brake pads have built-in "wear sensors"
that produce a scraping or squealing noise when the pads become worn.
In any event, noisy brakes should always be inspected to determine
whether or not there’s a problem. And don’t delay! If the pads have
worn down to the point where metal-to-metal contact is occurring, your
vehicle may not be able to stop safely, and you may score the rotors or
drums to the point where they have to be replaced.
How to Jump Start a Automotive / Car with a Dead Battery. Houston,Tx
Here are few tips and instructions on jump starting a dead
battery. First things first, though. You need to inspect the dead
battery. If you see any damage such as leaks or cracks. DO NOT go any
further. Put away the jumper cables and call a wrecker. A damaged
battery can explode and really hurt you. If the battery looks ok, then
park the cars close enough to each other for the jumper cables to reach
and shut off both engines. Now make sure the terminals are not caked
with corrosion. Try to clean them off as best you can. A corroded
terminal will make it a lot harder to jump the battery. At this point
you are ready to hook up your jumper cables to the batteries.
(Normally, the red cable is (+) positive and black cable is (-)
negative) They must be connected in this exact order: 1. Connect one
end of the (+) positive cable to the (+) positive terminal on the dead
battery. 2. Connect the other end of the (+) positive cable to (+)
positive terminal on the good battery. 3. Connect one end of the (-)
negative cable to (-) negative terminal on the good battery. 4. Connect
the other end of the (-) negative cable to the engine block of the dead
car. You are ready to start up the good car’s engine and charge the
dead battery. First of all, shut off all electrical equipment on the
good car. (head lights, radio, etc.) Let the good car’s engine run for
a minute or so before you attempt to start the dead one. Now get in the
dead car and attempt to crank it. If it sounds like it wants to start
but won’t quite get there, give it some more time and try again. When
the dead has started and is running, it is time to remove the jumper
cables. This must be done in reverse order. Here are the steps:
Disconnect (-) negative cable from the engine block on dead car.
Disconnect (-) negative cable from the (-) negative terminal on the
good battery. Disconnect (+) positive cable from the (+) positive
terminal on the good battery. Disconnect (+) positive cable from the
(+) positive terminal on the dead battery.
Tips for Maintaining your Automotive / Car Battery. Houston,Tx
You seldom think about your car battery until you are in a
deserted parking garage late at night and your car won’t start. Then it
becomes very important in your life. Car batteries require simple and
routine maintenance in order to work properly over their lives. If you
can open your hood and use a wire brush, you can maintain a car
battery. First thing is to pop open your hood and locate your battery.
Don’t worry, it won’t bite. The 2 posts that the battery cables are
connected to must be clean and free of corrosion. Corrosion can prevent
the cables from getting a charge from the battery and prevent your car
from starting. Simply keeping your terminals clean can keep those
troubles away. Get a wire brush and scrub the contacts clean. If you
are really motivated, you can remove the cables and scrub the inside of
connector and the terminal post. You should have a good contact after
you complete this little chore. You also need to check your water
level, especially when it is hot outside. If the water level drops too
low, the battery will have a difficult time holding a charge. Next time
you fill up, ask the guy at the service station to check it for you.
Don’t wait until your car is slow to crank up. If your battery is not
putting out enough juice, it may be too late to save it. The time to
save your car battery is before these symptoms show up and always have
a pair of jumper cables or a battery booster in your truck. You never
know if that old battery has cranked for the last time.
Automotive / Car No Start and Clicking Sound Houston,Tx
1. Try again. Though the battery is nearly "dead" the clicking
indicates that there is still some life left. Give your auto a few
minutes and try the key again. There may be enough energy to start your
car. (Make sure you do not pump the gas over and over while doing so as
you will likely flood the engine. This will also prohibit the car from
starting.) If the car starts, allow it to run for at least 20 minutes
to provide time for your alternator to recharge the low battery. 2.
Check under the hood. If the car doesn't restart after a few tries,
take a look under the hood. Look at the battery while you're under the
hood. 3. "Jump It" You will need to boost the battery. (Alternatively,
you can take the battery to a service station or call AAA for a
recharge or jump.)
My automotive / car suspension is not adjustable. Does that mean the wheels can't be aligned? Houston,Tx
No, it simply means the vehicle manufacturer was too cheap to
design adjustable suspension components when it engineered your car.
When a car maker designs a car, engineers and accountants scrutinize
each and every component to figure out how they can reduce
manufacturing and assembly costs. If a few cents can be saved by
leaving out an adjustable camber bolt, caster shim or whatever, they’ll
do it. They may have great faith in their own ability to build a
vehicle that never needs to be aligned or fixed, but we all know from
experience that such notions are untrue. So even though a suspension is
nonadjustable and shouldn’t require any corrections, that doesn’t
necessarily make it so. Even brand new vehicles can roll off the
assembly line with wheels that don’t meet their own alignment criteria.
Fortunately, the aftermarket has come up with ways to correct the
"mistakes" of the vehicle manufacturers. If the car maker doesn’t
include provisions for adjusting the suspension, it creates an
opportunity for some aftermarket part’s supplier to come up with means
of making such adjustments possible. These include offset bushings,
shims, wedges and other alignment aids. So even though your suspension
may have few if any adjustments for things like camber, caster and rear
toe (front toe is adjustable on all cars and trucks), there are
probably aftermarket alignment aids that allow at least some limited
corrections to be made on nonadjustable suspensions.
Do my automotive / car wheels need to be realigned after the struts have been replaced? Houston,Tx
On most vehicles they do. Here’s why: MacPherson struts are more
than overgrown shock absorbers. They’re an integral part of your
vehicle’s suspension. They replace the upper control arms and ball
joints and serve as the steering pivots for the front wheels. When the
strut assembly is unbolted and removed from the vehicle, the original
alignment of the suspension is lost -- unless the position of the
camber bolts and upper strut plate are first marked so they can be
reinstalled in exactly the same position as before. But this only works
if the same original strut is being put back into the car. If the strut
is being replaced because it is leaking, damaged or worn out, the
dimensions of the new strut will usually vary enough to cause a change
in wheel alignment. So wheel alignment should at least be checked to
see if adjustment is necessary (which it usually is). On some import
cars, the struts are "rebuildable." The housing has a removable nut
that allows the old guts inside to be dumped out and a new cartridge
installed. On these vehicles, it should not be necessary to realign the
wheels after rebuilding the strut
Driving down the highway, my automotive / car pulls to one side. Houston,Tx
A steady steering pull or "lead" to one side may have any of a
number of causes. The most likely cause is wheel misalignment. This may
be due to rear wheel toe or axle misalignment, front wheel camber
misalignment, too much cross camber or caster alignment (more than a
degree of difference side to side), or someone having "aligned" the
front wheels without the steering wheel being properly centered
beforehand. In any event, it will probably be necessary to have the
alignment checked to diagnose and correct the problem -- unless one of
the following is causing the pull: An underinflated front tire on one
side. Check tire pressures and make sure they are the same side-to-side
(no more than a couple of pounds of difference). Mismatched tires.
Tires of different size, aspect ratio or even tread pattern on one side
can create enough of a difference in rolling resistance to cause a
pull. A weak or sagging spring. Measure and compare ride height on both
sides of your vehicle (measure at the fender openings). If one side is
an inch or more lower than the other side, chances are you have a
spring that needs to be shimmed or replaced. A dragging brake. This can
be caused by a frozen or sticking disc brake caliper that doesn’t allow
the pads to kick back out from the rotor or weak or broken return
springs in a drum brake that don’t pull the shoes back from the drum.
Another possibility here might be a packing brake that isn’t fully
releasing on one side. An uneven load. If you, your significant other
or a passenger is causing your vehicle to lean to one side, it can
cause the steering to lead in that direction. Don’t laugh, a few
hundred extra pounds can make a big difference in a small vehicle --
especially if the weight isn’t evenly distributed side-to-side. If you
can’t do anything about the extra weight, it is often possible to
compensate by having the wheels realigned with a "simulated" load
positioned in the vehicle. Of course, then your vehicle may lead in the
opposite direction if the extra weight is removed. Excessive road
crown. Roads are usually sloped (crowned) from the center towards the
sides for drainage. If you spend a lot of time driving on highly
crowned roads and find the constant lead to the outside shoulder
annoying, you can have the wheels realigned to compensate for the
excessive crown. Adding or subtracting camber from one wheel or the
other to create a difference in the cross camber alignment of your
front wheels can counteract this kind of problem.
Finding a auto repair shop You Can Trust. Houston,Tx
How do you find a shop you can trust to service your vehicle—one that
will make you feel confident about your choice and provide quality
repairs at a fair price? Here are some tips: Start with the most
obvious. Is the facility neat and clean? Are employees genuinely
concerned with your questions and are their answers direct, to the
point and reasonable? Look at the credentials of the business and the
employees who will service your vehicle. Most shops will post
educational certifications or accomplishments and professional business
affiliations in their waiting areas. Some affiliations to look for
include trade association membership, such as the Automotive Service
Association (ASA). Look for certification or education offered by the
National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE), the
Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair (I-CAR) and the
Automotive Management Institute (AMI). Ask about the equipment used to
diagnose and perform the service. Is it up-to-date and are the
technicians educated in the proper equipment use? Make sure a written
estimate is provided prior to letting the business begin the repair. A
good rule of thumb is to request approval on any changes to the
original estimate that exceed 10 percent. Ask about the shop's
warranty. Most automotive service facilities will warranty their parts
and labor either in writing or in shop posted announcements. Ask
family, friends and neighbors for their recommendations. Word-of-mouth
referrals are the shop's best form of advertising.
10 tips to improve fuel milage for automobiles / cars. Houston,Tx
With gas prices at an all-time high, motorists are looking for ways to
improve gas mileage. Here's a few things to remember: Warming up your
vehicle in the driveway wastes gas. Drive slowly for the first few
blocks instead to bring your engine to optimal driving temperature.
Smooth, gradual acceleration increases fuel mileage; rapid starts waste
gas. Try to maintain a steady rate of speed and take advantage of timed
traffic lights. Watch your speed. For every mile per hour over 50,
mileage decreases roughly one percent. When traveling at a steady
speed, most vehicles get their best fuel econonmy between 35 and 45
mph. Proper tire inflation and wheel alignment decrease road resistance
and increase mileage. Check tire pressure monthly and rotate tires
using your vehicles specific maintenance schedule. A well-maintained
vehicle will run properly and use fuel more efficiently. Use your air
conditioning wisely. With the air on, your engine uses more fuel. Drive
less by planning ahead. Try to do all your errands in one trip and plan
the most efficient route. Don't vent your anger behind the wheel.
Aggressive acceleration wastes gas and can be dangerous as well. When
you see a red light or stop sign ahead, take your foot off the
accelerator and let your vehicle coast in gear. This lets momentum get
you to the intersection. Shift properly. If you have a manual
transmission, shifting into high gear as soon as possible without
straining the engine reduces drag and uses less fuel.
Important items to carry in your vehicle in case of road-side emergencies. Houston,Tx
In case of road-side emergencies, accidents or bad weather always have
in your vehicle the following items: Jumper cables, Pliers, an
adjustable wrench and a screwdriver. A first-aid kit, blankets, a
supply of any regularly needed or taken medications, candles and
matches, sand or kitty litter for climates with snow or ice, clean
water, canned fruit or nuts and a can opener.
High Water Headaches for car / auto floods. Houston,Tx
According to the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), floods are
one of the most common and widespread of all disasters. Most
communities in the United States have experienced some level of
flooding from high water due to spring rains, heavy thunderstorms or
winter snow thaws. While your vehicle may not have been flooded or
completely covered in water, that doesn?t necessarily mean that you
should not be concerned about water damage. If you drove through high
water, there?s a chance that you may have damaged your vehicle. It all
comes down to how much water the vehicle took in and where it reached.
Follow these guidelines to check for damage due to water intrusion or
contamination. Check interior carpets, upholstery and door and trim
panels for dampness. If they are wet then the vehicle will need
professional attention. If all you do is let the carpet dry, you will
quickly be rewarded by mildew and nasty odors. Seat brackets, motors
and modules should also be checked for rust and proper operation. Pull
the engine oil and transmission fluid dipsticks and differential plug.
If the fluid appears milky, diluted, is no longer its original color or
is beige in color, then it is likely the pans contain water. The
vehicle should be towed to your ASE certified mechanic or repair shop.
Driving the vehicle with water present may damage the internal parts
and require extensive overhaul or repairs. (NOTE: Some new synthetic
differential fluids may appear to be milky but are not water
contaminated, when in doubt let a professional make the evaluation.)
Check the air filter for water. If it is wet, replace the air filter
and change the oil. Check the undercarriage, bumpers, radiator area and
frame for mud, grass, dirt, debris and rust. If any of these are
present have the vehicle washed and cleaned as soon as possible. Have
the brake system checked by a professional. Check the exterior lights
for moisture and water. Replace headlights and bulbs that contain
water. Listen for abnormal noises while the engine is running. Make a
note of where the noise is coming from and take the vehicle to a
mechanic as soon as possible. Pay particular attention to the
alternator, serpentine belt, starter, power steering unit, air
conditioner and wheel bearings. Inspect the suspension joints and
lubricate as necessary. Many newer vehicles are lubricated at the
factory for life; however, these joints should be checked for rust.
Following these simple guidelines, you can help minimize the potential
for damage to your vehicle.
Car / Auto Preventive Maintenance That You Can Do Yourself . Houston,Tx
The vehicle's fluids are very important and should be checked
regularly. These fluids include the following: Brake Fluid — This check
is done by loosening the clip on the master cylinder and removing the
lid. If fluid is needed, consult the vehicle owner's manual for correct
type and fill to recommended level. Engine Oil — Correct engine oil
level should be maintained to assure proper lubrication of your
vehicle's engine. It is best to check engine oil level approximately
five minutes after a fully warmed up engine is turned off or before
starting the engine after is has sat for a long period of time. Remove
the engine oil dipstick, wipe the dipstick clean with a lint-free cloth
or paper towel. Reinsert dipstick until it fully seats in its tube.
Remove dipstick and read oil level. Add oil only when the level is at
or below the ADD OIL mark. Power Steering Fluid — This check is done by
removing and checking the dipstick. NOTE: The dipstick is attached to
the cap of the power steering fluid reservoir. Use the dipstick to
check fluid level in the same manner as you would check engine oil.
Transmission/Transaxle Fluid — This check should be done while the
engine is running in neutral with the parking brake securely set. The
transmission should be at operating temperature. Remove dipstick, wipe
clean, insert and remove again to check fluid level. CAUTION: DO NOT
OVERFILL! Windshield Washer Solvent — This check should be done by
removing the cap and reservoir and refilling with solvent. Antifreeze —
This check is done by removing the radiator cap from the cool engine
and refilling, if needed, with antifreeze.
Save Money at the Pump for auto / car. Houston, Tx
Despite historic high gas prices, Americans continue to travel the
roads in record numbers. Follow these guidelines to have a little extra
money in your pocket when you hit the road. Tires tie in to gas
savings: You can save money at the pump simply by checking the air
pressure in your tires regularly. The U.S. Department of Energy reports
one pound of underinflation costs consumers two to three miles of gas
per gallon. That wastes four million gallons of gas per day nationwide.
Take time out of your busy schedule at least once a month to make sure
your tire pressure matches the manufacturer's recommended amount found
in your owner's manual. Tune in to tune ups: Keeping your engine
properly tuned can save you big bucks. The U.S. Department of Energy
says fixing a car that's noticeably out of tune can improve gas mileage
by 4 percent. Healthy air filters: You should check and replace air
filters regularly. Replacing a clogged air filter can improve your
car's gas mileage by as much as 10 percent. Get the pedal off the
metal: Fifty-five not only saves lives, it saves gas. Government
figures show gas mileage decreases rapidly at speeds above 60 mph. Each
5 mph you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.15 per
gallon for gas. Beat the heat: Buy gasoline when it's cooler outside,
like early morning or later at night. That's because gas is denser in
cool temperatures, and gas pumps measure by volume. You'll get more
bang for your buck. Plan ahead: Cars hate gridlock as much as we do.
Avoid congested areas in order to keep your car from idling. Drive
sensibly: If you drive aggressively, by accelerating and braking
abruptly, you're wasting fuel. By driving a little more sensibly,
avoiding jackrabbit starts and stops, you can save yourself money by
increasing gas mileage by up to 33 percent at highway speeds amd by 5
percent around town.
While irregular tire wear is a good indication that it might be time to
have your tires replaced, did you know that it can also be a warning
sign that your vehicle is experiencing steering, alignment or
suspension problems? Becoming familiar with these early warning signs
is a good preventative maintenance tip that will keep you on the road.
Steering If your vehicle is pulling to one side, make sure you first
check your tire pressure. If your tire pressure is balanced, your
steering problems could be due to any of the following: an uneven tire
rod length, incorrect toe, unequal camber or caster, or an incorrect
center link/rack height. If you are experiencing excessive steering
play or hard steering, have your technician check for loose or worn
struts, strut mounts, shocks, springs and/or bushings. Suspension There
are many components within the suspension system of your vehicle. If
you are experiencing suspension problems, have your technician check
the tire alignment, bearings, bushings, strut rods, springs and/or
control arms. Be sure to inspect all suspension components and repair
all parts that are worn or damaged. Failure to do so may allow the
problem to reoccur and cause premature failure of other suspension
components. Alignment Wheel alignment is needed for proper handling and
tire wear. Proper wheel alignment keeps the wheels from scuffing,
dragging or slipping. It also reduces fuel consumption and strain on
steering and suspension parts, and improves steering ability. There are
three alignment angles that affect your vehicle; camber, caster and
toe. Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel at the top from
a true vehicle line and is measured in degrees. The purpose of this
adjustment is to distribute the vehicle load closer to the point of
road contact. This makes steering easier and helps prevent excessive
tire wear. Caster is a directional control angle measured in degrees
and is the amount that the steering axis tilted from true vertical
backward or forward. Caster affects turning ease, straight-line
stability and steering wheel returnability. Toe is the difference
between the front and rear of the corresponding tires at spindle
height. This is easier to understand when you compare your car's wheels
to your own feet. When the fronts of the tires face in toward the car,
this is called toe-in. When they face out from the car, this is called
toe-out. Incorrect toe will increase tire scrub and wear.
You can find ASE-Certified technicians who are trained to perform scheduled maintenance on many makes and models at Lucas Car Care. We install quality parts and our work is backed by a 18-month/unlimited mile "Peace of Mind" warranty - all while keeping your vehicle's warranty intact.
We Care About Our Customers!! Call now 281-379-5800
Testimonials
Highly Recommended
These guys are great! A friend recommended them to me, and I've had an A+ experience with them. I'd been going to the BMW dealership for years and getting charged and arm and a leg every time. I came into Lucas with an issue, and they were really fast - they didn't even charge me for the diagnostic because they instantly knew what was wrong and how to address it. I highly recommend this place!
-Kenneth Smith
Professional
They fixed a complex problem in my exhaust system....I wasn't passing emissions and they correctly diagnosed and remedied the problem. They were straight forward and honest through out. Having an old car I have used my fair share of mechanics so I know good when I see it and these guys are professional. -Renata Cassady
Genuine Automotive Shop
Had a major poblem with my XJS8 with a knock in the motor. After tyger and the techs listen to my car they found out the problem quckly. I had put in the wrong oil and gas for the type model that I owned. After cleaning out the fuel and putting in royal purple my car has never ran any better. Thanks to Tyger. -Christine Dugas
BMW or Mercedes Drivers
If you own a BMW or Mercedes, check these guys out should you ever need them serviced. When you go, ask for Craig - he'll be sure to take care of whatever you need. These guys are passionate about cars, and being a small business, they've got much more at stake - so they'll be sure to take care of their customers. You won't be just another number, like at your dealership. I may not know much about cars, but if I ever have any problems, I take my car here. -Brad Tilley
Wont Hesitate Again
I've started doing my own car maintenance after 6 years of getting fleeced by my BMW dealer's service department. Well, I screwed something up with the cooling fan. Based upon the reviews here, I had my car towed to Lucas. I spoke to Gary, and he was able to get the fan, belt and pulley replaced the same day and for less than the "stealership" would have charged! I will continue to do my own maintenance and basic repairs, but when I have something serious that needs to be fixed, I will not hesitate at all to go to Lucas. -Susan Hutchison
Wow This Shop is Beyond Belief
This is by far the cleanest shop I have ever been to, the customer service is great, and the work is high quality. Truly amazing. I had body work done here on my MX6, I was given a great loaner car, the price was less than what I was quoted, my car was cleaned inside and out, the owner called me personally to wish me a wonderful weekend also to make sure his guys took care of me and the work was up to my expectations, and I received a thank you card in the mail for my business. Let me just say this, these Google reviews are no joke, Lucas Auto Care is definitely the best in Houston. -Shannon George
Great experience!
I went to Lucas Car Care after being referred by 2 different sources. I had my 04 Ford Van into the dealer 4 separate times to fix an AC problem. Each time, they told me they fixed the problem but it never seemed any better. I went to Lucas' and they found and fixed the problem on the first visit. My AC now works like it should have all along. Aside from fixing the problem, I really liked the fact that my service advisor (Craig) kept me posted on what they were doing and explained things to me clearly. I'll be using Lucas Car Care for all my auto service going forward! -Charles Lieberman
Front end Repair
I took my BMW here to get the front-end repainted and to have some interior work done (my dash needed to be recovered). Lucas repainted my front-end flawlessly for a reasonable price and even sanded/buffed out the dullness on my headlights for free! The headlight treatment saved me about $800 vs. buying new headlamps, so that alone is worth the five star rating. Overall, for value and quality...and most importantly for a body shop...trustworthiness...Lucas Auto deserves my and all the other 130+ 5 star ratings it has received. I would highly recommend them and will return in the future. -Wesley Stclair
